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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Chap..£jI>^opyri'glit No. 

Shelf... JS.^ 5 ?> 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



/*UG' 



^S Jfiyg 



FLOWERS 

How to 
Grow Them 






By eben e/rexford 



Philadelphia 

The Penn Publishing Company 

1898 



14041 



Copyright 1898 by The Penn Publishing Company 




Sf,. 



TWOCOFidSRcCtlVED. 



'esfc. 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 

Introduction. A Word with the Amatjeur Florist . . 5 

I. Soil for Pot Plants.— Hints about Potting and 

Eepotting 9 

II. Watering Plants.— Drainage 18 

III. Exposure— Showering — General Hints .... 23 

IV. Insect Enemies 31 

V. Propagation 37 

VI. Summer Care of House Plants 40 

VII. Geraniums 47 

VIII. Fuchsias 53 

IX. The Chrysanthemum 60 

X. Begonias 66 

XI. The Abutilon, the Lantana, and the Helio- 

, trope . . . .• 71 

XII. The Calla, the Agapanthus, and the Glox- 
inia «"j^- >-7^ 

XIII. Salvia, Jasmine, and Oleander 82 

iii X 



iv Contents 

PAGE 

XIV. Roses, Carnations, and Hydrangea .... 86 

XY. The Primrose, the Primula, and Plumbago . 93 

XYI. The Amaryllis, Imantophyllum, and Yal- 

LOTTA 97 

XVII. Decorative Plants 101 

XVIII. Vines for the Window Garden 107 

XIX. Window-Boxes 110 

XX. Hanging-Baskets 116 

XXI. A List of Miscellaneous Plants Adapted to 

Culture in the Window-Garden 120 

XXII. Bulbs in Winter 123 

XXIII. How TO Make and Care For the Lawn ... 132 

XXIV. Planting the Lawn 110 

XXV. The Out-door Garden 119 

XXVI. Hardy Border Plants 160 

XXVII. Table Decorations 168 



INTRODUCTION 



A WORD WITH THE AMATEUR FLORIST 

In order to grow flowers well — and the true lover 
of flowers will not be satisfied to grow them in any 
other way — one must understand their habits and 
requirements. Unless these are understood the cul- 
tivation of flowers will be largely experimental in its 
nature, and no one will feel confident of doing the 
right thing in the right way at the right time. The 
experiment may prove successful, but in many in- 
stances it will prove to be a failure. It is therefore 
desirable that the beginner should understand cer- 
tain general principles upon which successful flori- 
culture is based, and it is the object of this little 
book to teach these principles in a concise, common- 
sense, practical manner. 

Much of the information necessary for the success- 
ful growing of flowers must come from a study of 
the plants grown. This cannot be taught by books. 
It is the result of personal observation and experi- 
ence. The person who has the best phmts is the 
one who gives them most attention. I do not mean 
5 



6 "ffntroDuction 

by this the person who works among them the most, 
but the one who studies their peculiarities and knows 
just the kind of treatment each plant needs. Such 
a person goes to work intelligently, and his work 
tells, because it is the result of thought and good 
judgment. One knows, when starting a plant, just 
what to do to develop it fully, because he under- 
stands it as he understands one of his own children. 
The thoughtless amateur will at the outset attempt 
to grow all plants after tlie same general plan, but 
after a little he will see that plants differ in their 
natures quite as much as a family of children, and 
by and by he will see that it is necessary to vary 
and modify any general rules that may be laid 
down, and suit the treatment to the plant rather 
than to oblige all plants to respond to a particular 
kind of treatment. It may seem to the amateur 
florist that it is a great undertaking to do this, but it 
is not so to the true lover of flowers. There is a 
pleasure in watching one's plants grow and develop 
that makes the work delightful, and almost uncon- 
sciously one acquires the knowledge necessar}^ to 
make a successful florist. 

The amateur florist, as a general thing, is very 
enthusiastic at the start, and almost always attempts 
more than he is well able to carry through. He is 
not content to begin in a small way and enlarge his 



1Intro&uction 7 

garden or his windoAV collection as the knowledge of 
what is needed groAYS. But this is precisel}^ Avhat 
should be done. Begin in a modest fashion, with a 
few plants of easy culture. By the time you have 
learned how to grow these well you will feel able to 
undertake the culture of others not quite as easily 
grown, and in this way you go on, by easy stages, 
until 3^ou understand enough about most plants 
adapted to general cultivation to warrant you in 
attempting to grow them. Be content to go slowly 
at first, like the child who must master the alphabet 
before he is equal to the demands of the first reader. 
Learn the general principles well, and the rest will 
come in such an easy way that you will hardly 
realize how it came. And be content, also, to begin 
with plants which are not very exacting in the way 
of treatment required. Select such kinds as seem to 
grow well with most cultivators, and try to grow 
them better than your neighbor does. A very com- 
mon plant, well grown, is vastly more satisfactory 
than a rarer plant poorlv grown. Qualit}^ should be 
considered as more important than quantity, or any- 
thing else connected with jouv plants. Aim to get 
out of any plant you grow all there is in it. Develop 
fully all its possibilities, and you will have a speci- 
men to be proud of, no matter how common it 
may be. 



8 1[ntro^uctlon 

And be thorough with your work. When yon 
have learned what shouhi be done, aim always to do 
that work well. Slipshod work among plants re- 
sults in plants that always have a slipshod appear- 
ance. They show the neglect of their owner. Unices 
you love plants well enough to give them the best of 
care, do not attempt to grow tliem. 



FLOWERS 



CHAPTER I 

SOIL FOR POT PLANTS — HINTS ABOUT POTTING AND 
REPOTTING 

Many amateur florists labor under the impression 
that ahnost any soil will grow plants well. While it 
is true that most plants will grow in most soils, it is 
also true that, to get the best results, j^ou must adapt 
the soil to the plant. In other words, after learning 
what kind of soil a plant does best in, aim to give it 
that soil if possible. If you are unable to find it at 
hand, manufacture it by combining other soils, or 
elements of soils. This can easily be done in such 
a manner as to meet the requirements of most plants. 
If your soil is rather heavy, with more clay than 
loam in it, you can make it light and friable by 
adding sand. The kind of sand used should be 
coarse and sharp. The quantity needed can be 
determined only by experiment. Mix some with 
9 



10 $" lowers 

the soil, then take it up in the hand and squeeze it 
iirnily together. If, when the pressure is relaxed, 
the soil crumbles and falls apart, or shows a tend- 
ency to do so, it is safe to conclude that you have 
used enough sand, and no more need be added. 

Such a soil will answer well as the basis of a com- 
post for nearly all strong-rooted plants. Plants hav- 
ing finer roots — roots of the fibrous sort — will do 
better in a soil containing more loam than clay, and 
possibly leaf mold might suit them still better than 
loam. This depends largely on the nature of the 
plant, and is a matter to be decided by practical 
tests rather than by any instruction that can be 
given here. Many kinds of plants, like the fuchsia, 
the gloxinia, and the begonia, like a soil composed 
largely of leaf mold, because it is made up chiefiy of 
vegetable matter. 

If leaf mold is not obtainable, a most excellent 
substitute for it is found in the soil taken from old 
sods. Cat the sod with a sharp spade, and turn it 
over. Examine it, and you will find that inniie- 
diately below the grass growing on its surface it is 
full of very fine, hair-like roots. Shave ofi' all that 
part of it containing these roots, and use it in place 
of the leaf mold, which can only be found in woods 
where old leaves have drifted in hollows, or about 
the roots of trees, where they have lain until thor- 



Soil for iPot lplant6 11 

oughly decomposed, giving a soil very fine and mel- 
low, black in color, and rich in fertilizing elements. 
The substitute advised will be found almost as good 
in every way, if enough is used, as the roots of the 
grass yield a vegetable nuittcr (^uite similar in rich- 
ness to that from decayed leaves. Whenever you 
are advised to use leaf mold, and cannot get it, use 
grass-root soil instead, and your plants will hardly 
know the difference. With either of these soils 
some sand should be used, to keep them open and 
porous. Not as much will be re(iuired as Avhere 
clay or loam form the basis of the compost, because 
they are somewhat spongy, and do not pack down 
and become hard and compact under the applica- 
tion of water, as heavier soils are sure to do, unless 
well mixed with sand. 

As all soils differ in different localities, it is im- 
possible to lay down any fixed rule for the composi- 
tion of potting composts ; that is, proportions cannot 
be given which will secure the same results. But a 
good rule to go by is this : Mix in sand until the 
soil with which it is used shows a tendency to remain 
friable, whether dry or wet. Squeezing it in the 
hand will be a sufficient test for it when dry. To 
determine the nature of it when wet, fill a pot with 
it and pour on enougli water to thoroughly saturate 
it all. Then watch the result. If the water runs 



12 iFlowera 

out readily, leaving a soil that looks wet but not 
muddy, you may be sure that you have it mixed in 
satisfactory proportions. But if the soil looks smooth, 
sticky, heavy, add more sand. 

Garden loam forms a good basis for a compost 
that will fully answer the requirements of nearly all 
the common plants one grows in the window. If it 
is not rich, a fertilizer must be added to make it so. 
I never advise the use of barnyard manures, because 
they almost always breed worms in the soil, and 
these worms are sure to injure your plants. I much 
prefer finely-ground bone meal. This is rich in 
nutritive elements, lasting in effect, and perfectly 
safe to use. The proportions are one teacupful to a 
large pailful of soil, mixing it in well. If fine, the 
plants soon feel the effects of it. If coarse, a longer 
time must elapse before it dissolves sufficiently to 
impart its richness to the soil. Therefore, in pur- 
chasing, always get that which is finely ground. 

If you get a plant with Avhich you are not familiar, 
and do not know just what kind of soil to pot it in, 
examine its roots. If they are few and large, like 
those of the rose and the geranium, and strong in 
appearance, give them a moderately heavy soil. If 
they are small and threadlike, and there are a great 
many of them, give them a light, spongy soil. 
Plants with strong, large roots like a firm soil as a 



Soil foe l^ot iplant6 13 

general thing, and will not do well in a soil that is 
light and fine. On the other hand, fine-rooted plants 
cannot be expected to do well on heavy or compact 
soils, because their roots have not sufficient strength 
to penetrate them. A study of the roots of plants 
will enable one to decide satisfactorily, after a little 
experience, about what kind of soil your plants 
require. This is one of the things you must learn 
at the beginning of your floricultural career, and it 
is easy to learn it if you set about it in the right 
way. That way is, as I have said, by studying your 
plants. 

It is a good plan to keep a supply of potting soil 
on hand, as, if you have many plants, some of them 
will need repotting, or shifting to pots of larger size, 
at intervals during the season. If you have the soil 
ready, quite likely you will give the plant the atten- 
tion it needs just when it is needed ; but if you do 
not happen to have the necessary soil you will be apt 
to let the plant wait until you get a supply, and this 
may be too late to benefit it. Make it a rule to 
keep a supply of soil on hand; also to make use 
of it whenever you see that a plant is in need 
of it. 

To grow a plant well it must never be neglected. 
If you find that one has filled its old pot with roots 
until they form a network about the side, you may 



14 3Flower0 

be sure that a larger pot is demanded, and that at 
once. To allow a growing plant to remain in a pot 
too small for it is to give it a severe check — one 
from which it will not easily recover — and in order 
to properly develop a plant no check should be 
allowed to take place. It should be kept going 
ahead steadily. Therefore examine your plants fre- 
quently, and know the condition their roots are in. 
You can do this by slipping the soil out of the pot. 
This may seem a difficult and delicate operation to 
perform at first, but it is very easily done. Spread 
your right hand over the surface of the soil, your 
first and second fingers on each side of the plant ; 
invert the pot, tap the edge of it against some- 
thing hard and firm, then lift the pot with the left 
hand, and generally it will slip off the ball of earth 
without disturbing a root of the plant growing in it. 
If the roots, as has been said, form a network about 
the outside of the soil, you will know that repotting 
is necessary. Use for this purpose a pot one or two 
sizes larger than the old one. You need not disturb 
the plant in the least, if it is a young one, by re- 
potting it. Simply fill in between the old soil and 
the new pot with fresh soil, pushing it down firmly 
with the fingers, and jarring the pot a little to make 
sure that it gets where it belongs. Then water well, 
and set the plant in a shady place for two or three 



Soil for ipot Iplants 15 

days, and your plant is ready to go on growing 
again. 

When old plants are repotted, a good deal of the 
old soil can be crumbled away from among the roots. 
If this were not done, and larger pots were given each 
time, they would soon require a pot so large that we 
could not give them a place in the window. In re- 
potting such plants care should be taken to disturb 
the old roots as little as possible. Simply crumble 
away the soil from about them, being careful to 
break none of them. When the plant is put into its 
new pot, or back into its old one, sift in fresh soil 
about these exposed roots and jar it down well, but 
do not press upon them with force enough to bruise 
them. Be tender of your plants always in all you 
do for them. After you have filled the pot with soil, 
apply enough water to saturate all of it. This will 
settle the earth about the roots firmly, and your 
plant will go on growing as if nothing had happened 
to it. 

Young plants, seedlings, and those started from 
cuttings, must be handled carefully in potting, as 
their roots are very delicate and tender and are easily 
injured, and injury to them is sure to result in harm 
to the plant. It is always best to sift the soil lightly 
about them, and jar it down instead of pressing it 
down with the fingers, as the latter operation might 



16 jflowers 

break them. Small pots are required at first for all 
young plants. Those three inches across are large 
enough for them. Leave them in these pots until 
their roots have filled the soil, and then shift to pots 
a size or two larger. Most young plants will require 
two or three shifts during the season, if growing 
steadily. Plants a year old, or older, will not need 
repotting oftener than once a year. Sometimes it is 
not necessary to entirely repot them. Dig out as 
much of the old soil as you can without disturbing 
the roots, and put fresh soil in its place. When this 
is done each spring and fall, it is all the attention the 
plants will require in this respect. Many prefer this 
to entirel)^ repotting the plant, because it is less 
trouble. But for the first year of a plant's growth 
it is advisable to repot, wholly, from small pots to 
those of larger size. 

Do not make the mistake of using large pots for 
small f)lants. It is a common mistake, but one by 
all means to be avoided, because a plant with but 
few roots will not do so well in a large amount of 
soil. It is not able to make use of all the nutriment 
in it, and soon gets into a condition quite similar to 
that of a dyspeptic person who is unable to properly 
digest the food taken into his stomach. It is over- 
fed, and the result is a general weakening of the 
system which often results in the death of the plant. 



Soil tot Ipot UMante 17 

A plant lacking sufficient room for its roots will be 
injured in consequence, and a plant given too much 
room, and therefore more food than it can properly 
make' use of, will be correspondingly injured. This 
shows the danger of both extremes- lack of proper 
food and over-feeding— and the amateur who would 
be successful in the cultivation of plants must avoid 
it. Let your repotting be governed by a knowledge 
of the condition of the roots, and be sure to get 
your knowledge from examination of the roots 
rather than a mere observation of the plant. 



CHAPTER II 

WATEEING PLANTS DRAIXAGE 

There are three ways of Avatering plant-s — two 
wrong ways and one right way. 

Some persons go on the little-and-often plan. 
They water then- phmts when they happen to think 
about it, applying only small quantities each time. 
The consequence is that the water does not penetrate 
the soil to any great depth, and that portion of the 
roots below the line of moisture is sure to suiter, and 
very often they die wholly, and the plant always has 
more or less of a sickly appearance. This plan is 
always a failure, because it does not adequately sup- 
ply the needs of the plant. It may be sufficient to 
keep it alive, but it is not sufficient to keep it in a 
healthy condition. 

Directly opposite to this is the plan of overwatering 
which many persons thoughtlessly follow. They 
water their plants thoroughly to-day. To-morrow 
they apply the same amount as to-day, and so they 
go on from one day to another. The result is that 
the soil is kept saturated with moisture. It is in the 
condition of nuul all the time — a condition that suits 
only aquatic plants, and one in which tlic ordinary 
IS 



TllHatenncj plants -2)ramai}e 19 

plant will soon become diseased. The stagnant 
water will sour the soil, and the roots will begin to 
decay. This decay goes on because the conditions 
that originated if are continued, and by and by the 
plant dies. These are the two wrong ways, one 
equally as bad as the other. Extremes of this sort 
should be avoided, and the only way to avoid them 
is by watering your plants properly. And this is done 
by observing the following rule : 

When yo.u Avater a plant, do it thoroughly. Apply 
enough to reach all portions of the soil in the pot. 
Then wait until the surface of the soil looks dry be- 
fore more is applied. 

This rule, like all other rules, has its exceptions, 
but it is one that all amateur florists will do well to 
follow as closel}^ as possible. As long as the surface 
of the soil looks damp you may be sure that there is 
all the moisture in the soil below that is needed. 
When by evaporation this moisture has passed off to 
such an extent that the soil takes on a dry look, it is 
safe to conclude that more is needed, and then more 
should be applied. The experienced plant-grower 
will be able to Judge of the condition of the soil in 
other ways, but the amateur must be governed to a 
great extent by the appearance of the soil. It is safe 
to say that no plant should be given more water as 
lonar as the surface of the soil looks wet. 



20 3flo\vcr5 

Enough should bo given each time to eonipletely 
saturate all the soil in the pot. It' proper drainage 
is given all surplus water— that is. all water that the 
soil eannot take up and hold — will run off at the 
bottom of the pot. through the hole provided fortius 
purpose. 

The term " proper drainage " seems to pu/./.le many 
amateurs, but there is nothing about it that need 
puzzle any one. Orainage is provided to keep the 
soil above from washing down and elosing the hole 
in the bottom ot the pot. There should be at least 
an ineh of it in four and tive-ineh jK^ts, and pots of 
larger size should have an ineh and one-half to two 
inches of it. Very large pots will need three inehes 
of drainage. The best drainage material is made 
from old pots and briek. Pound it Avell, until it is 
broken into |neoes not larger than a marble. Vut 
these pieces into the bottom of your pots in the 
quantities advised for the various sizes, and shake 
them down well. Over them it is well to lay a bit 
of sod or some moss — something that will prevent 
the soil from Avorking down among them — before 
tilling the pot with compost. 

^[any pei*sous are very careless about drainage. 
Some consider it a whim, and neglect it altogether, 
but the plants such pei*sons grow generally prove the 
necessitv of it. There is no whim about it. It is 



TIQlatciiiui KMants-Bvainaiic 21: 

based on a. sciontiru' |>rinci[>lo. If you would avoid 
tho evil sure to result I'roni too nuieli moisture in the 
soil you must provide some way lor surplus moisture 
to eseape ; and this is precisely what we do wlieu 
we drain our pots as here directed. With such 
drainage there is ahsolutcly no danger from over- 
watering. The soil can hold in sus[)ension only a 
certain amount of water. If it is not dannnctl up, 
and escape therehy prevented, water enough to in- 
jure the roots of a plant will never be retained by 
the soil. Therefore be sure to provide good drainage 
for your plants. 

I have advised the application of enough water to 
thoroughly saturate the soil each time. How can 
we tell when enough to do this has been given? By 
applying so nuich that some will run ofY through 
the drainage hole in the bottcMu of the pot. When 
we see some escaping there we may know tbat all the 
soil above it is wet through. 

From wbat has been said it will be understood 
that tbere is no regular w^atering time tor plants. 
Some have roots tbat enable tben? to make use of 
much more tban others. Some soils part with moist- 
ure mucb more rapidly than others. Some rooms 
are kept so warm tbat evaporation takes place 
quickly. When all these things are considered it 
will be seen that there can be no regular time for 



22 ^[owers 

watering plants. Water must be given when the ajD- 
pearance of the soil shows the need of it, and not till 
then. 

Some persons say that rain or soft Avater should 
always be used. I have used soft water and hard 
Avater, and have never been able to see an}' difference 
in the effect on plants. I would advise taking the 
chill off well water in winter before applying it to 
very tender plants, but ordinary plants, like the 
geranium, do not require this. 



CHAPTER III 

EXPOSURE — SHOWERING — GENERAL HINTS 

The best exposure for plants is, as a general thing, 
a southern one. The next best is an eastern one. 
Some plants can be grown in western windows, but 
not as well as in the other exposures named, because 
of the intense heat of the afternoon sun. If care is 
taken, however, to shade the glass during the hottest 
part of the day, it is possible to grow plants well 
under these conditions, but it will necessitate a good 
deal more work and attention, although the true 
flower-lover will not mind that. He will be willing 
to AYork for the plants he loves. 

There are few plants that do well in a north win- 
dow. The lack of sunshine prevents the production 
of flowers. But some of the palms, the aspidistra, 
ferns, and English ivy will flourish there, if particu- 
lar attention is given to watering, and the " green 
things growing " in a sunless window will add greatly 
to the attraction of any room. Because of tlie ab- 
sence of sunlight evaporation will take place slowly 
from plants in a north window, and it will be neces- 
sary to give only the amount of Avater needed to 

23 



24 Jplowers 

keep the soil moist. More than this will bring 
about a souring of the soil, a condition seldom met 
with when plants are fully exposed to sunshine, and 
this is pretty sure to bring on a disease of the roots 
which often results in tlie sickness or death of the 
plant. Stir the surface of the soil two or three times 
a week, and let the air have free entrance to the 
roots of the plants. It will in some degree do for 
the soil what the sunshine would do for it if it had 
a chance to reach it. 

Most plants, lowering plants especially, require a 
good deal of sunshine. You can hardly have too 
much to suit the geranium, the heliotrope, the car- 
nation, and the rose. They must have it in order to 
full}'' develop the beauty of their colors. Conse- 
quently a south window is best of all for such plants. 
Others, like the fuchsia and the begonia, do not care 
for strong sunshine, or sunshine all the day, and 
these are therefore better adapted to an east window. 
If you can contrive to combine eastern and southern 
windows into a sort of southeastern corner nook for 
your plants you will have an ideal place for them. 
The sun-loving plants can have the south windows, 
those liking the early sunshine the east ones, and all 
will get the beneiit of tlio best possible light 
througliout the day. 

Never have curtains at the windows where vou 



Biposure— SbowcrttiQ— (Seneral Ibints 25 

keep plants. If shade must be given, let it be ar- 
ranged by awnings from the outside. Western win- 
dows can be covered with vines in sunnner, thus 
tempering the effect of the afternoon sun to a great 
extent. Keep the windows open as much as pos- 
sible, as the glass draws the heat, and helps to burn 
the plants. 

Showering plants is of the greatest importance, 
nearl}' as much so as watering. Out-of-doors they 
get the dew daily, and the benefit of frequent 
showers, and as a consequence the red spider is sel- 
dom found on them. In the house they fail to get this 
moisture on their foliage, and ver}^ soon the leaves 
will begin to turn yellow and fall off, and the plant 
takes on a sickly look and generally dies, unless it is 
put out-of-doors. If this is done it often recovers. 

An examination of the under side of the yellow 
foliage will show that it is covered with tiny webs, in 
which minute red specks are seen, looking more like 
grains of cayenne pepper than a living creature. 
But watch them and you will see them move. Small 
as this red spider is, he is a most deadly enemy to 
plant growth, as he sucks the life-blood from the 
branches, and is sure to destroy whatever he attacks if 
left unchecked. Nothing will rout him but water. He 
revels in a dry atmospherCo Make and keep it 
moist, and he will take his departure. 



20 3f lowers 

l^vorv ainatour tlovist should have a brass syringe, 
made expressly for the use of ilorists. With this he 
can throw a stream or spray of water at pleasure, and 
the use of it enables him to throw water just where 
it is most needed— against the under side of the 
dense foliage, for there the spider will take up his 
quartei^s, believing himself safer from moisture there 
than on the upper side of the leaf. Use this s^'ringe 
daily among your plants. It is a good plan to put 
oil-cloth or linoleum under the plant stand to pro- 
tect the carpets. 

If you start out with a daily showering of your 
plants, and make it a part of the regular program, you 
will have no trouble in keeping the spider down. 
But neglect this part of their care lor a week, during 
a warm, dry spell, and the chances are that your 
plants will become infested, and when the pest has 
once obtained a t\>othold you will lind it a hard 
matter to rid them of it. It is much easier to keep 
him away than it is to drive him away. An ounce 
of prevention is, in this case, worth a good many 
pounds of cure. 

In case your plants should become infested before 
you are aware of it, heroic and prompt measures 
should be resorted to at once in the extermination of 
the insect. In tn*der to etfect this, heat water to a 
temperature of 120°, and dip the infested plants iu 



jBiposure-Sbowcrine— General Iblnts 27 

it, allowing them to remain under water for about 
half a minute at a time. Repeat this operation 
three or fonr times at intervals of half an hour, and 
you will be pretty sure to kill all the spiders. Then 
beg-in the daily showering already advised, and keep 
it up. Don^t wait for the spider to make a reap- 
pearance, but act on the defensive, and refuse him a 
chance to re-establish himself. 

In addition to the daily shower-bath, keep water 
evaporating on stoves, registers, or radiators in rooms 
where artificial heat is used. One reason Avhy so 
many fail to grow plants well in the living-room 
is the air in it is robbed of its vitality by excessive 
heat. We keep our rooms too warm for the health 
of both plants and persons. ^Moisture in the air 
will, to a great extent, counteract this evil. 

In furnace-heated houses it is almost impossible to 
grow plants, because the dry, intense heat extracts 
the vital principle from the atmosphere. ^ Plants 
breathe as persons do, and they cannot be expected 
to flourish in an air from Avhich moisture has been 
almost wholly taken. Tlie necessity of admitting 
fresh, pure air frequently, in liberal quantities, will 
therefore be readily understood. Make it a rule to 
treat your plants to a draught of outside air on 
every pleasant day by opening some window other 
than that at wdiich the plant stands, or a door some 



28 aflowers 

distance from them. This allows the cold air to 
mingle with the warm air of the room as it flows in, 
and thus the chill is taken from it before it reaches 
the plants. Air from outside admitted in winter at 
the window where plants stand is generally cold 
enough to injure them, hence the advice to admit it 
through windows or doors some distance from them. 
By the daily use of the shower-bath and the regular 
admission of fresh air, it is often made possible to 
grow plants where they would be sure to die if 
these precautions were not attended to. The impor- 
tance of them will therefore be understood, and the 
wise florist will see that they are made a part of the 
regular treatment of the window-garden. It is a 
good plan to keep a basin of water among your 
plants, and have at hand a small atomizer. When- 
ever you are at work among them during the day 
spray them. It will take but a moment to do it, but 
the effect of this practice, if repeated often, will soon 
be seen in the vigorous and healthy growth of your 
pets. The importance of moisture on the foliage as 
well as at the roots of plants has not been fully realized 
heretofore, but Ave are rapidly coming to recognize the 
necessity for it. 

Keep the soil stirred well about your plants. This 
admits air freely to their roots and prevents the 
formation of a crust on the surface, which interferes 



}Sipo6Uce-Sbowerina General Ibints 29 

with the free entrance of water. An old-fashioned. 



two-tined fork is a good tool to use in loosening the 
soil. 

Always keep your plants clean. This not only 
adds to their attractive appearance, hut is of great 
benefit, hygienically. If you allow the pores of the 
leaves — the lungs of the plants — to become clogged 
with dust, they suffer greatly, and will soon become 
sickly. The daily showering, which has been ad- 
vised, will prevent this to a great extent. It is a 
good plan to cover them with a light, thin cloth, 
while sweeping and dusting the room. Remove 
every dying leaf as soon as seen. Cut off all flowers 
as soon as they begin to fade, and never throw them 
down among the plants to decay. Burn them, or 
dispose of them in some way that will not make 
them a source of infection to your plants. 

Turn your plants at least once a week, so that the 
sunshine and light will have a chance to get at all 
sides of them. If this is not done, they will soon 
become one-sided, as their foliage and branches will 
be drawn to the light. 

If they show a tendency to make an unsymmetri- 
cal development, prune away the objectionable 
branches, or pinch off the ends of them, and keep 
them pinched back until some of the weaker 
branches have a chance to get a start. A strong 



30 3f lowers 

branch will often, if left to itself, dominate the entire 
plant by drawing to itself the nourishment whieh 
ought to be shared Avith the smaller branches. Do 
not allow this. The nipping-off oi^ the end of it 
will give it a temporary clieck, during which time 
the rest of the plant may approi)riate some of the 
vital force which it has monopolized. 

If a plant sliows a tendency to grow up tall and 
branchless, cut it Ixick at least a tliird. In most in- 
stances, branches will start along the stalk. If only 
one or two start, however, cut these back as soon as 
they have made a growth of four or live inches, and 
keep on doing this until you have ol^liged the plant to 
tlirow out as many branches as you think necessary 
to make the plant bushy when developed. You can 
almost always force a plant to come to your terms, 
in this respect, if this course is pursued. 



CHAPTER IV 

INSECT ENEMIES 

Every one who attempts to grow plants must 
make up his mind at the start that it will be neces- 
sary, sooner or later, to wage a battle with insects. 

One of the most destructive enemies of plant-life 
is the red spider, spoken of in the last chapter. The 
treatment advised therein is the onl}^ successful one 
in fighting this pest. 

The aphis, or green plant louse, is generally found 
among all collections. Where showering is done 
daily and good care of the plant is taken, the aphis 
will almost always be kept in check, and thus pre- 
vented from doing much damage. But neglect your 
plants for a short time and you will be surprised 
some day to find the young and tender branches of 
many kinds completel}^ covered with aphides. This 
insect increases with wonderful rapidity, if left alone, 
and in a short time will ruin a collection if a per- 
sistent and exterminating warfare is not waged 
against it. 

The principal insecticide used in fighting the aphis 
is tobacco, in one form or another. Some depend 



32 3flowec5 

upon fumigation entirely. I consider this the most 
effective way of killing off the pest, but its disagree- 
able features are so pronounced that many persons 
hesitate to resort to it. The odor of burning tobacco 
will penetrate to every room in the house, and cling 
for days to everything with which it comes in con- 
tact. It is so strong that it often brings on nausea, 
and on this account few persons are able to use it in 
this form. But the fact that the fumes of the weed 
penetrate everywhere is one of the strong arguments 
in its favor. It searches out the nooks and corners 
where the aphis is likely to be in hiding, and none 
escape it. 

It is a good plan to fit up a room to be used ex- 
pressly for fumigating purposes. Have it apart from 
the main portion of the dwelling. Make it as snug 
and tight as possible. Let there be shelves across 
the middle of it, two or three feet from the floor, to 
set the plants on. Put some live coals in an iron 
pot, and over these sprinkle a quantity of tobacco 
leaves and stems, such as can be bought at any cigar 
manufactory. It is well to dampen them somewhat, 
as this makes them burn more slowly, and they 
throw off a denser smoke than the dry material. 
Do not put them on the coals until you have your 
pot or kettle in place under the plants. Then put 
them on and close the room tightly. Leave the plants 



flnscct Enemies 33 

in the smoke for about fifteen minutes. At the end 
of that time, if the tobacco has burned well, you will 
find that every aphis has fallen from the plant, and 
is either dead or dying. 

Sometimes the smoke is not strong enough to kill 
the insects, but they will be found in a stupefied 
condition clinging to the branches. Set the plants 
over a newspaper spread out on the floor, and jar 
them sharply. The insects will tumble off in great 
quantities. Gather them up and burn them, to make 
sure that none revive from their temporary stupor. 

If you have no room that you can use for fumi= 
gating purposes, a large dr3^-goods box can be made 
to answer very well by pasting paper over its cracks 
to make it tight, and fitting up a door in one side to 
admit plants and your fumigating outfit. 

Tobacco tea is often used in fighting the aphis. 
To make it effective, a considerable quantity should 
be prepared, and the plants should be held upside 
down and dipped in it. It will be strong enough to 
kill the insects when about the color of ordinary tea, 
as used on the table. Let the plants remain in it 
for about five minutes. This process is a slow and 
laborious one, as only two or three plants can be 
treated at a time, and they must be held in place 
while their tops are under water. It is, however, 
quite effective, and there is but little of that un- 



34 J'lowcrt? 

pleasant sinoU Avliich results from fumigation. Yet, 
for large eolleetions, I must advise the latter. But 
little good is done by applying tobacco tea -with a 
syringe. Some of the insects are sure to escape, and 
in a short time another application must be made. 

After fumigating plants, shower them well with 
clear water. 

The mealy bug is a most annoying pest when he 
becomes domesticated among one's plants. He looks 
like cotton, white and downy. He gets into the axil 
of the leaf, and hides in cracks and crevices where 
it is almost impossible to get at him. On this account 
one cannot tight him '" in the open." The only way 
to wage elfective warfare against him is by using 
some infusion strong enough to rout him. It must 
be applied with a syringe, and applied wherever 
there is a crack or crevice large enough for him to 
crawl into. I have found fir-tree oil soap to be a 
very reliable agent in fighting this enemy. Two 
ounces of it should be dissolved in water just brought 
to the boiling point. To this should be added 
enough water to make about two gallons of the 
infusion. AVhen it begins to cool, apply it. Be 
sure to use enough to reach every part of the plant. 
If you do not your labor will be spent for naught, 
for if a few of the bugs escape they will propagate 
rapidly and in a short time your plants will be 



ITnsect jBncmics 35 

infested as badly as ever. This pest is generally 
introduced into ordinary window collections by 
plants bought from greenhouses, where they are 
almost always to be found. It is well, therefore, 
when you buy new plants, to look them over very 
carefully before putting them with your other 
plants. A little attention of this kind, at the proper 
time, may save a great deal of labor and vexation 
later on. 

Smooth-leaved plants, like the English ivy, the 
hoza, the lemon and orange, the oleander, the palm, 
and the myrtle are often attacked by what is called 
scale. This insect, if insect it can be called, attaches 
itself to the surface of the leaf, and subsists by 
sucking its juices. In a short time the leaf will 
take on a yellow look, and the whole plant will 
have a sickly appearance. Often the branches and 
stems are almost completely covered with it. Noth- 
, ing is more effective than the same fir-tree oil soap 
advised in fighting the mealy bug. Apply it with a 
rather stiff bristle brush. Rub the parts affected 
forcibly enough to dislodge the insect. Go over each 
plant, branch by branch, and let not one escape 
you. For two or three days after doing this, give 
the plant a thorough washing with the soapsuds, to 
make "assurance doubly sure." 

Plants are often injured by worms in the soil. The 



36 3Plo\vcr5 

most destruotivo kind is a small white one, which 
bores its way into tlie tender young roots. It is 
generally introduced by the use of liquid manure 
prepared from barn-yard soil, or by the same soil 
used in the potting-compost. On this account, as I 
have already said, I never advise the use of barn- 
yard manure. When the worms are found, prepare 
lime-water after the following plan : Take a piece of 
perfectly fresh lime, as large as a coti'ee-cup ; put it 
in an ordinary-sized pail of water and let it dissolve ; 
when dissolved, pour otf the clear water and apply 
to your plants. The sediment found in the bottom 
of the pail is worthless. Apply enough to each 
plant to thoroughly saturate all the soil around it. 
Unless this is done, the application Avill do no good. 
Many persons are under the impression that lime- 
water prepared in this manner is so strong that 
plants might be injured by it if applied in liberal 
quantities, but such is not the case. Water can only 
hold a certain amount of lime in composition — 
never enough to harm any plant. Bear this in mind, 
and do not be afraid to use enough to penetrate 
every portion of the soil in the pot. It is very im- 
portant that the lime used should be fresh. Air-slaked 
lime is worthless. 



CHAPTER V 

PROPAGATION 

Most house-plants are propagated from cuttings, 
which are placed in sand or earth to form roots. 

A cutting is a piece of branch three or four inches 
long, taken from some part of the plant of recent 
growth. Old branches are not good for this purpose, 
as the.y are generally covered with a tough bark, 
which is not fovorable to the development of roots. 
Neither is new, soft wood very desirable, as it often 
decays before a callus forms. A callus is a sort of 
healing-over of the edges of the cutting, and is a 
preparatory stage in the formation of roots. This 
must form before the roots can be produced. A cut- 
ting, in which the wood is neither very tough nor 
very brittle, is in al)out the right condition to root 
well. Bend the branch selected. If it partly breaks 
and partly ])ends, you may be sure it is about what 
you want. Cut it off with a sharp knife, unless it is 
a branch which can be removed entire from the 
parent phxnt, in which case it is better to remove it 
by breaking it away from the point of union. Trim 
away the lower leaves, leaving two or three at the 

37 



38 . if lowers 



oiul of it. Insert the base in a shallow vessel of 
earth, making it firm in its place by pressing the soil 
against it with the tingers. 

It will be found that nearly all cuttings root most 
readily and certainly in clear, sharp sand, which 
should be kept wet all the time : not wet enough to 
be in the condition of mud. with water settling to the 
bottom of the vessel, but with as much water in the 
sand as it can possibly retain without becoming 
muddy. Keep it in a warm place. You will be 
surprised to tind that .most outting-s have begun to 
make roots at the end of a week, and in three 
weeks they will be ready to put into pots. Be sure 
never to allow the sand to get dry. If you do your 
cuttings will never revive. 

Plants having a rather tough bark, like the Kng- 
lish ivy and the oleander, genemlly root better in 
water than in sand. Often they refuse to ptit forth 
roots for weeks, but do not be discouraged as long as 
the leaves at the end of the cutting remain fresh. It 
is a good plan to put them in wide-mouthed bottles 
liUeil Avith rain-water. Suspend them in the window 
where the sun will shine upon the lower part of the 
cutting. As the Avater evaporates, add nuu-e from 
time to time, keeping the bottle about two-thirds 
t'ull. Leave them in the water until their roots r.re 
two or three inches long. 



Many plants are propagated by division of the 
roots. * Ferns of the adiantuni class can be increased 
in this manner more etVectively than in any other. 
So can asparagns sprengerii, and all varieties of the 
begonia throwing np stalks in large numbers from the 
crown of the plant. Cut the roots apart with a sharp 

knife. 

Bulbous and tuberous plants, like the amaryllis 
and the calla, can be propagated by removing the 
young offshoots as they appear about the old plants, 
and potting them in soil similar to that in which the 
old plants are growing. 



CIIArTKK VI 

SUMMKK OAKK OF HOVSK PLANTS 

Vfky many persons are in the habit of putting 
their house ph\nts out of dooi'j> in sununer. Some of 
them turn them out of their pots and plant them in 
the open ground. Others " pluniie " Uunn — that is, 
tiiey sink the pot with the phint in it in the ground 
lip to its rim. 

These methods ot" suinnieriuir plants are resorted 
to beeause the owners think they "save trouble" by 
them. They are under the impression that plants so 
treated will "take eare of themselves," consei|ueutly 
they save a good deal of labor by resorting to thetn. 

In this they are mistaken. 

Plants that one expeets to make use of during the 
coming winter must be given attention all through 
the season if tine speeiiiiens are wanted, and the 
true tlower-lover will ui^t be satistied witli anything 
else. It is true that a plant turned out of its pot, 
and set in the open ground, will make a much 
stronger growth than it would it" kept in the pot, and 
that it will make this growth without any attention 
from it"^ owner. But, when fall eomes. and it be- 
40 



Summer Care of IDoikk iplnnts 41 

comes necessary to lift aiul pot the plant for removal 
to the house, a large share of the roots will have to 
be cut off in order to reduce the amount of earth to 
tlie size of the pot to be used ; and when the young, 
working roots are thus removed it will be necessary 
to sacritice a pro[H>rtionate amount of the top. The 
process of lifting and re[)otting is a laborious one, 
and one that woukl seriously disturb the j^huit if no 
roots Avere cut away. Taking tliis into consideration 
it will reacHly be seen tliat a i)lant so treated must 
be greatly weakened at the very time when it needs 
its strength most, for the period of removal to the 
house is always a trying one to any ])lant, because 
of the great cliange in conditions which necessarily 
takes place. Notice a ^dant that has been sunnnered 
in the open ground, after it has been lifted and 
taken into the house in fall, and you will see that 
the loss of roots and branches and the lowered vital- 
ity resulting from the disturbance it has received 
have given you a most unpromising looking s})ecimen. 
The vigor of growth which characterized it while in 
the ground has disap[)eared. iSuch a plant will gen- 
erally require all winter to recuperate, and while this 
recuperative process is gxnng on you will get few, if 
any, tlowers from it. Therefore, you have gained 
nothing by putting it in the garden, except that 
while it was there it ''took care of itself." But vou 



42 ^flowers 

have really lost a good deal, because the plant is 
worse off than it was in spring after having done a 
good winter's work. You will have to admit that 
the labor of lifting and repotting was quite sufficient 
to offset all the attention it would have required if it 
had been left in its pot. 

'' Plunged " plants generally suft'cr from lack of 
moisture at their roots. The soil about the pots 
seems moist, and from this one is likely to get the 
impression that the soil in them is in a similar con- 
dition. Examination will generally convince one 
that such is not the case. The pot prevents the soil 
in it from absorbing a sufficient amount of moisture 
from the soil about it, and unless one is careful to 
watch the plants, and water them frequently, they 
are almost certain to suft'er severel}^ from drouth. If 
you have noticed '' plunged " plants you must have 
observed that they never grow with the vigor and 
luxuriance of plants in the open ground. The chief 
factor in the dift'erence of development is the result of 
lack of sufficient moisture at the roots. To give them 
the water they need makes it about as much work to 
take care of them as they would require if kept in 
pots on the veranda, where they can be given shelter 
from strong sunshine and winds. 

I would, tliereforo, advise always keeping plants 
intended for next winter's use in pots during the en- 



Summer Care ot Ibousc iplants 43 

tire season. I would give them a place on a par- 
tially shaded veranda, or under a shed with a slat 
roof. In either of these places you have them un- 
der control to a great extent. You can give all the 
water required to plants whose growth it is advisa- 
ble to encourage at this season. You can withhold 
water from those needing a resting spell, thus keep- 
ing them almost dormant, and you can temper the 
sunshine to the needs of each specimen. You can 
give the little attentions daily which they would 
most likely go without if put in the garden ; and 
the secret of successful plant-growing consists, in a 
great degree, in giving just these "little attentions" 
which are difficult to describe, but which the ob- 
servant plant-grower will soon learn if he goes 
to work lovingly and carefully, with a view to fully 
understanding the character and requirements of 
his plants. And it is quite as necessary that you 
should know your plants as thoroughly as you know 
your children. You will find peculiarities about 
each one of them, and these peculiarities cannot be 
ignored if you would be successful with them. 

Plants summered in this way very often do not 
need complete repotting in fall, simply the removal 
of the upper portion of the soil in the pot and the 
substitution of fresh, rich earth. The result will be 
that they will come to the season of removal to the 



44 flowers 

house ill the best condition possible to stand the 
trying change. 

I do not like to hear persons talk about the 
" bother '' of plant-culture, or of letting plants '^ take 
care of themselves/' If one really loves plants — and 
the man or woman who would be thoroughly suc- 
cessful in the culture of them must be a lover of 
them — the labor of caring for them will be found 
a source of rest rather than weariness. If one does 
not love them, he should never attempt to grow 
them. Plant-growing by those who simply want 
plants because their neighbors have them is (piite 
likely to be a failure. You must care more for the 
plant itself tlian you do for the fads and fashions of 
lioriculture if you Avould acliieve success with it. 

Plants intended for winter use should never be 
allowed to bloom in summer. You must do all you 
can to induce the plant to store uj) energy for the 
coming season. If allowed to bloom now it Avill 
have exhausted itv^elf to a greater or less degree be- 
fore the period comes when you hope to get the 
greatest amount of pleasure from it. 

Do not give fertilizers to plants not making strong, 
active growth. The point to aim at in sunnner is 
rest, and to feed a plant on rich food encourages tlie 
reverse of rest. Hold back your fertilizer until the 
plant begins the work of the season. 



Summer Care ot 1bou6e BMants 45 

As has been stated, the season of removal to the 
house is a most trying one to phints. Out of doors 
they have been accustomed to fresh air, moisture, 
and a not very high temperature. In the house 
they will find conditions changed greatly. The air 
will be dry, and there will be heat of an enervating 
character, because of the lack of moisture in it. So 
the windows should be left open, as much as is 
possible, if the weather is pleasant, and the plants 
should be showered every evening. Use no fire heat 
unless the weather is quite cold, and then just 
enough to keep a chill off the air. Keep up this 
treatment until your plants have accustomed them- 
selves to the change. By care in this respect you 
can get them used to the new conditions by such 
easy stages that when the cold season arrives and 
the rooms have to be closed they will not mind it 
much, especially if you are careful to keep up the 
daily shower-bath and the admission of fresh, pure 
air during the middle of the day. 

At this season insects breed rapidly because the 
conditions wdiich generally prevail in the house are 
extremely favorable to their production. It is well, 
therefore, to make sure that your plants are entirely 
free from them when they are brought in. If you 
find one aphis give the whole collection a thorough 
fumigation. In addition to this it is well to treat 



thorn lo a bath in an infusion of tir-tivo oil >oap. as 
iulvisod in tho chapter on insoet ononiios. Suoh 
prooautions are never useless. If ** eternal vidlanee 
is the priee of liberty/' it is no less true that it is 
also the price of freedom from insects anioui: the 
plants in the ^Yindo^v. 

When plants are not groNving much but little Avater 
Avill be needed. They are not in a condition to make 
use of much moisture then through the medium of 
their roots, 'rhereforc be careful not to give enough 
to cause souring of the soil, which trequently results 
at this season of the year, because evaporation goes 
on slowly. When the plant begins to grow it will 
be iu a condition to make use ot" larger quantities. 
Therefore study the conditions which exist and be 
governed by them. 

Many pei-sons make the serious mistake of giving 
their plants liberal application of a fertilizer at this 
season, thinking to force growth. This is all wrong. 
Xo plant needs a fertilizer while it is iu a dormant 
condition, it is not in sha]H^ to make use of it, and 
to ii'ive it is to injure the plant. Fcrtili/crs should 
only be given when a plant is making active growth. 
r>ear this in mind, tor it is a matter of great impor- 
tance. Many a plant has been killed by giving it 
rich tbodwheu its stomach was unable to digest it. 



CHAPTER VII 

OEUANTUIMS! 

TiiK goraniuiii has boon justly called '^ everybody's 
llower/' bocauso overvbody can grow it Avith very 
little trouble, and grow it well. It llourishes under 
circunistances unfavorable to the production of line 
specimens of most other plants. It is a ivrot'use and 
iilmost constant bloomer at nearly all seasons of the 
year. It conies in an almost endless list of desirable 
varieties, both double and single, and its colors range 
through many shades of red, scarlet, and crimson to 
pale rose, peach, salmon, and \n\vo white. The dark 
colors are of exceeding richness and brilliancy, and 
the lighter ones are very dainty and delicate. No 
other plant can brighten up the window like this one. 
A well-grown specimen ought to have at least half a 
(k>zcn trusses of bloom at a time during the Avintor, 
and the effect of half a dozen such plants in a Avin- 
dow of the ordinary size can readily be imagined 
after one has seen some of the tiner sorts at their best. 

Personally, I prefer the single varieties. Their 
iiowers have, to me, much more individuality than 
the double kinds, but the great decorative possi- 

47 



48 J-* lowers 

Inlitios of tho latter avo not to bo valued lightly. 
Their trusses hi^^t longer than those of the singU^ 
kinds, and are, as a general thing, more freely pro- 
duced. The trusses of some of the tinest douWe 
sorts resemble one large tlower more than a eoUeo- 
tion of small blossoms, so closely are the individual 
tlowoi-s set together. Thov are veritable balls of 
bloom. 

In order to have plenty of blossoms from the gera- 
nium during Nviuier. the pl:u\ts seleettnl for winter 
use should receive spcvnal treatment in summer. 
They should never be allowed to bloom. As soon as 
a bud is seen nip it otV. From time to time durmg 
the season pinch otY the ends of the branches. This 
will cause other branches to start along the main 
stalks of the plant, and by tall you ^v ill have a speci- 
men that is bushy and compact, with blossoming 
points all over it. Unless you pinch back your plants 
and oblige them to send out branches all along the 
stalks, you will quite likely have a tall, spr:\wly 
specimen with but two or three points from which to 
expect tlowers. 1 .eft t o tnxin itself, the geranium that 
grows in a pot is capable of making itself about the 
most awkwaixl and ungainly of all plants. l>nt insist 
on its growing into symmetrical shape by frequent 
and proper pruning and pinching and you will ttnd 
it verv tractable. 



©cvanium^ 49 

Training should begin wIumi the plant is small. 
Let it nnike a growth of tVnn- or livo iiu'hos. Then 
nip off the to[\ and kee[> on (.K>ing this nndl you 
have at hwst halt' a dozen branehes started near the 
base of the plant. These, it" nipped baek ^vhen live 
or six inehes hing, will also put forth branehes, and 
the result is, as 1 have already said, a bushy, eoni- 
pact speeimen quite unlike some of the phmts we 
se^ growing in some window-gardens. So imlike 
them, in faet, that they seem like distinet varieties, 
as regards their habit of growth. 

Plants whieh have grown and blossomed in the 
garden in sunnner are worthless for Avinter use. 
They must have a long period of rest betbre the}^ 
ean be expeeted to bloom well again. Sueh plants 
Avill be nearly all winter in reeovering from the effect 
of the season's work in the open ground, but plants 
treated as here advised and grown expressly for use 
in the house in winter will begin to bloom in No- 
vember, and continue to produce llowers throughout 
the entire season. 

There are so many fme varieties well adapted to 
general cultivation that it is a ditVicult task to say 
which are best. TUit I venture to nanu^ half a dozen 
each of the single and double kinds I most prefer, 
assuring any who adopt n\y selections that they will 
be pleased with them. 
4 



50 J'UnvcrsJ 

SINGLE SOKTS 

Athlete. — Brilliant soarlot ; tlowei's large and 
round ; trusst^s enornunis : a profuse bloomer. 

Maky Haii.ock. Footk. — Salmon, shading to bright 
rose at eentre, ^Yitll a -wide ^vhite edge to each petal ; 
a most lovely variety. 

CtKanvu.i.k. — The tinest pink sort; a very free 
bloomer ; color very soft and delicate. 

SorvENTK PE "MiKANDO. — A fancy sort : tloit^ts 
large and full : upper petals crcam-Avhite, edged 
'svith rose : lower petals saluion-rose. ^vilh white 
markings. 

Violet Queen. — A most beautiful shading of rose 
and heliotrope; truss large, and individual tUnvei-s 
of good size and tine form. 

^[AKGrEKTTK PK T.A/KKS. — Puvc "wlute ; thc plant 
is very lloriferous ; the tiowers are large, and never 
come stained with pink or green, as many of the 
so-called *• whites " do. 

nOU lU.K SOKTS 

S. A. XuTT. — Rich, dark crimson ; tiowers perfect 
in shape and size. 

Mapame DKnorcHE. — Briglit rose-color; large 
truss and tine tlower. 

>[akv lIii.L. — Deep pink, of a pure, rich tone; 
llowei's lariie ; verv free bloomer. 



(Beranlums 51 

Colossus. — Flower of great size, often two and 
oiie-balf inches across; color a soft, bright rosy 
crimson. 

Marquise de Galard.— Rosy cerise, shading to 
orange; a striking sort; plant of compact habit; 
almost a perpetual bloomer. 

La Favor it a. — Pm-e white ; very fine. 

The foregoing sorts comprise the most distinct 
representatives of each class. But there are scores 
of other fine sorts from which to select, and all 
tastes can be suited. 

One of the most useful geraniums I have ever 
grown is Madame Salleroi. This sort never blooms, 
but it has small leaves produced in such profusion 
that a plant is one mass of foliage. The leaves are 
a pale green edged with pure white, and they have 
quite as ornamental effect as flowers. The plant 
grows in a rounded, compact form without any 
training whatever, and will be found extremely 
useful to fill in among larger plants. It is very fine 
for massing in mantel decoration. I grow dozens 
of plants of it, each year, in the greenhouse, and 
find it one of the most satisfactory of ornamental 
foliage plants. 

There should be a rose geranium in every col- 
lection, not only for its beauty, but because its leaves 
will be found indispensable in making up small 



52 3Plo\vcrs5 

bouquets and boutouuioros. Another tine, fragrant 
sort with beautiful foliage is the Dr. Livingston. Its 
leaves are almost as tlnely eut as those of some 
varieties of fern. 

The ivy-leaf varieties eomprise some very beau- 
tit'ul speeimens for window-use. ihie of the thiest is 
fc^ouvenir de Charles Turner, with large tlowers ot' a 
bright pink, the upper petals feathered with maroon. 
Another good sort is Jeanne d'Are. pure white. 
P. Orozy is a very tine variety, with tlowers ot" a rieh 
shade of scarlet. These varieties, beeause of their 
semi-elimbing habit, must be given support of some 
sort. They are very eharming when groAvn as 
bmeket-plants, and allowed to droop. 

Some persons labor under the impression that a 
geranium is worthless after the first year of its exist- 
enee. This is a mistake. It takes at least two years 
to fully develop. A year-old plant is merely a hint 
of what a two-year-old plant will be if properly 
grown. And its usefulness is not outlived at two 
years. Cut it baek sharply in spring and repot it, and 
keep it growing slowly during sunnner, not allowing 
it to bloom, and in fall you will have a plant quite 
as good, or better, than it was the previous year. 
Sueh a plant will prove to you what a geranium is 
eapable of doing in the window : but a young plant 
is only able to make promises for the future. 



KUniSIAS 

TiiK fuchsia, is owe of tlu' Ix^st suiuin(M--l>K>()mini!; 
j)lan(8 wo luive. It begins to blossom oarly in tlio 
season, and oontinues to <j;ive us (lowers in i^reat [)ro- 
fusion until late in (he ("all. A full-grown sjxH'iuien 
is a sight worth going a long way to s(H* when in lull 
bloom. 

The fuehsia. is easy of cultivation. lhi( i( reijuiret}- 
a little dilYerent trea(nuM)(. from (lie geranium and 
plants of that class. In (In^ (irst place, it likes 
best a soil composed alniosl wholly of leaf-mold. It 
is well to mix coarse siind with it geiun'ously, as this 
faeilhates frec^ passage of water through i(. 'I'he 
])o(s must he \\(A\ draimvl, as stagnant walcr at (he 
roots is sure to injure this plant. 

It likes i\. good deaJ of watiM-, both at the roots and 
overhead. If the drainage is ])erf(H*t and the soil is 
light and porous, one can hardly give it too much at 
the roots. Make it a practice to water it. daily and 
thoroughly. Apply until some runs o(T at tlu^ bot- 
tom of the pot. Never neglec^t this j)art of the 
treatment. 11' you allow a plant to get really dry at 

53 



54 3flower0 

the roots it will quite likely drop its leaves and buds, 
and it receives a check from which it will hardly re- 
cover during the entire season. 

It requires frequent repotting during the early 
stages of its growth. If allowed to become root- 
bound while young and making free growth it is sure 
to be greatly injured. Keep watch of its roots, and 
as soon as you see that they fill its old pot shift to 
one of larger size. A large specimen will require 
about a ten-inch pot, if you would enable it to do 
itself justice. 

It does best in a window opening to the east. The 
sunshine of the early part of the day suits it much 
better than that of mid-day. In a west window its 
leaves will curl as if scorched under the influence of 
the heat of the afternoon sun. Never attempt to 
grow it there. 

It is of extremely rapid growth. A plant started 
in March will often attain a height of five or six feet 
by August. It grows " like a weed," and one well- 
developed plant will quite fill a window of the ordi- 
nary size. As most varieties are of very slender 
habit, support will be needed. I would never advise 
the use of racks or trellises. They are heavy, 
unsightly affairs, and a plant trained on one is 
never very graceful. The most satisfactory support 
I have ever found is a stout iron rod with holes 



3fucb6ias 55 

punched through it five or six inches apart. 
Through these holes run a heavy wire, twisting it 
out and in in such a manner that the loops in it 
project eight or ten inches on all sides from the rod. 
Do not attempt to make these regular. They will 
not be seen after a little, and they are only intended 
to support the branches, so it does not matter how 
they look when the frame is made. Tie the main 
stalk of the plant to the rod and let the side branches 
dispose of themselves over and among the wires. A 
plant trained in this way will have a natural, grace- 
ful look, and everybody will admire it because of the 
absence of formality and primness which almost 
always characterizes a specimen trained to a flat rack 
or trellis. 

Some varieties, like the lately-introduced Little 
Beauty, are of a drooping habit. These never 
appear to advantage when made to assume an up- 
right form. Let them train themselves. Such a 
plant is most effective when grown on a bracket 
about half-way up the window. 

There are many varieties of this plant in cultiva- 
tion, all good. Some are single, some double. The 
single . sorts are usually preferred as they are more 
graceful than the heavy double flowers which seem 
too great a weight for the slender stems upon which 
they grow. 



56 3Flowet0 — 

The best single varieties are : 

Convent Garden White. — A lovely sort ; the tube 
and sepals are ivory-white ; the corolla a rich rose- 
color. This sort grows rampantly, and is a wonder- 
fully free bloomer. I consider it the loveliest of all 
fuchsias. 

Black Prince. — Of stiff, erect growth ; sepals 
crimson, corolla violet, fading to magenta, large and 
well expanded ; a great bloomer. 

Rose of Castile. — Of erect, tree-like habit ; sepals 
creamy white, slightly tinted with flesh; corolla 
rich purple ; very fine. 

Earl of Beaconsfield. — Tube and sepals rosy car- 
mine; corolla several shades darker; of strong 
growth ; very floriferous. 

M. Thibaut. — Tube and sepals dark red; corolla 
rose Vermillion, shaded with violet. 

Mrs. Marshall. — White tube and sepals ; corolla 
delicate rose ; a charming flower. 

The following are excellent double varieties : 

Phenomenal. — Of great size ; tube and sepals 
crimson ; corolla dark purple ; free flowering. 

Mrs. E. G. Hill. — A general favorite with those 
who like double fuchsias ; tube and sepals bright 
red ; corolla pure white ; of strong habit, and a 
most profuse bloomer. 



3fucb6fa6 57 

Madam Bruant. — Tube and sepals scarlet ; corolla 
heliotrope blue, flamed with rose ; a novelty of great 
merit; very strong grower, and a great bloomer. 

Rosain's Patrie. — Tube and sepals rosy carmine ; 
corolla white ; very fine. 

Little Beauty is a fine sort for a hanging-basket. 
It begins to bloom when a small plant and produces 
great quantities of flowers throughout the season. 
Its branches drooj^ and soon completely hide the pot. 
Tube and sepals rich red ; corolla violet, fading to 
mauve. A charming little plant. 

There seems to prevail an impression that the 
fuchsia is — or ought to be — a winter bloomer, and 
many persons keep them in the window all winter, 
hoping to get flowers from them. This they gener- 
ally fail to do, greatly to their disajDpointment, and 
the}^ are at a loss to understand the reason of their 
failure. They would not make this mistake if they 
understood the nature of the plant better. It is not 
a winter bloomer, save with one exception, and the 
place for your plants in winter is the cellar. There 
they should go by the latter part of November, and 
there they should remain until the first of March. 
During the winter give very little water. No harm 
will come of it if you allow them to get so dry that 
they shed their leaves. Keep them away from frost. 
In March bring them up, and put them in the light, 



58 3Plowcr6 

and give water in small quantities at tirst, increasing 
the supply when the plant begins to show signs of 
growth. As soon as you can make sure where the 
new branches are going to be, cut away at least half 
the old top. Repot as soon as possible after the 
plant has a start. Year-old plants Avill not need 
such frequent shifts as has been advised for young 
plants. Otherwise the treatment given should be 
the same. 

I have said that there is one exception to the 
statement that the fuchsia is strictly a summer 
bloomer. This exception is speciosa. This sort 
would bloom the year round if allowed to do so. 
It is really a perpetual bloomer. I would advise 
growing it for use in winter ]\v keeping it as nearly 
dormant as possible in summer. (Jive water moder- 
ately, and never allow it to perfect a ilower. In 
September repot it, and after that encourage it to 
grow freely by giving it all the water it can use. 
It is naturally of a drooping habit, and should 
be trained to a central support, as already advised. 
The slender branches, which will be thrown out 
in great profusion from the main stalk, will take 
a downward curve, of themselves, and the liowers 
which a thrifty plant will produce in enormous 
quantities will so load them down that they often 
have to be tied up to prevent their breaking. A 



IfucbBfae 59 

well-grown plant of this sort is a most beautiful 
sight. 

Fuchsias arc flue plants for tlie dciCoration of tlio 
veranda in summer. Thoy do h(ilt(;r when <;xj)Osed 
to free air than when kept in tlie liouse. Be careful 
to protect them from strong winds, as their l)ranches 
are brittle and easily broken. 

Few plants [iropagate more easily than the fuchsia. 
Cuttings inserted in sand, and kept moist, are almost 
sure to grow. 

It is useless to try to grow tliis j>lant to perfection 
unless one can give it tlie soil tliat suits it. In clay 
or heavy loam it will make a weak growth, and fail 
to flower well. It pays to take a good deal of trouble 
to get the plant the soil it needs. If grown well,' it 
makes one of the most attractive plants an amateur 
can have in his colle(;tion. A line collection of 
fuchsias is something to be proud of, and the owner 
of it is idwiiys sure of the satisfaction (A having it 
admired by all who see it. 



CHAPTER IX 

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 

One of the most popular and beautiful flowers of 
the day is the chrysanthemum, and its popularity is 
well deserved. Any one can grow it. It blooms at 
a time when other flowers are past their prime, or 
have not yet begun the season's work. All these 
merits tend to make it a general favorite. 

I have said that it is of easy cultivation. This is 
true, when one understands the right treatment 
foT it. 

Being what may be called a one-season flower — 
by that I mean that it completes its growth and 
develops its crop of flowers in a period not extend- 
ing through much more than half the year — it must 
be treated in such a manner as to keep it making 
steady progress from start to finish. Unless this is 
done, the highest degree of success cannot be attained 
in its culture. 

It is easily propagated by cuttings, or by division 

of the roots. Old plants will throw up dozens of 

shoots about the base of the last-year stalks, and 

each one of these shoots can be cut away from the 

60 



tTbc Cbrseantbemum 61 

old plant in such a manner as to leave a bit of root 
attached. Put these shoots in three-inch pots, early 
in the season, in a light, rich soil, and encourage 
them to make a good start by keej^ing them moist 
at the roots, and in a light, warm place. In a month 
or six weeks they will be found to have filled their 
pots with roots, and when this has been done, they 
should be given a shift to a pot two sizes larger. It 
is very important that this work should be done at 
the time when the necessity for it is apparent. If 
you allow the plant to remain in the pot until its 
roots get cramped for room, it receives a check from 
which it will not fully recover during the season. 
Therefore, if j^ou want to grow fine specimens, make 
it a rule to shift your plants whenever they need it. 
The second shift will be necessary in about two 
months after the first one is made, A third one will 
follow in due season, the precise time for it being 
determined by the condition of the roots, on exami- 
nation. Probably few amateurs will give more than 
three shifts in a season, but if perfection is aimed 
at, four will be needed, the last one coming about 
the middle of August, just before the buds begin to 
show. A nine or ten-inch pot will not be too large 
for a plant, if well developed. 

It is also very essential that a rich soil be used. 
This plant is a great eater. It can hardly have too 



62 3Flower5 

much or too rich food. A good compost for it is 
made up of garden loam and thoroughly rotted old 
cow manure, two parts of the former to one of the 
latter. The manure should be so okl as to be black 
and friable. In such a soil this plant will make a 
rank, strong growth, and delight you with its vigor 
and luxuriance, but in a poor soil it will make a 
slender growth and seem like quite another plant. 
If you are unable to obtain the rotten manure ad- 
vised, use bone meal, finely ground, mixing it thor- 
oughly with the loam in the proportion of a table- 
spoonful to a quart of the latter. 

Another item of great importance in the successful 
cultivation of this plant is water. It likes to drink 
as well as it likes to eat. In summer time it should 
be watered liberally every day, and in very hot 
weather it will be benefited by giving water twice a 
day. Be sure that every portion of the soil in the 
pot is reached by each application. If you allow it 
to get dry at the roots once during the season you 
are sure to give the plant a check quite similar to 
that resulting from cramped roots, and these checks 
must be avoided if you would grow }' our plants well. 
Make sure to prevent them by giving daily attention. 

Some persons put their plants in the ground dur- 
ing summer. If this is done they Avill make a 
stronger growth than can be expected from them 



tXbe Cbci^santbemum 63 

when kept in pots, but when one comes to lift and 
pot them in fall much of this summer growth will 
be sacrificed necessaril}^ and the plant gets a check 
at the very time when development ought to be going 
on rapidly. Buds will begin to form about this 
time, and disturbance of the roots will seriously in- 
terfere with this process. Therefore 1 would advise 
keeping your plants in pots throughout the season, 
as it is much easier to keep them making steady 
progress when this is done. 

The chrj^santhemum is a most tractable plant, and 
can be grown as a tree, or in bush form. If you 
prefer the tree form, begin with the plant when 
young, and encourage it to make a straight growth to 
a height of about three feet. Allow but one stem to 
grow, and keep branches from forming. When the 
height desired is reached nip off the top. Branches 
will probably start all along the stalk, but all of these 
except five or six near its extremity should be re- 
moved. Allow those you leave to make a few inches 
of growth, and then pinch off the ends of them. 
This causes other branches to form at the head of the 
plant, and by persistent pinching you can force it to 
develop a thick, bushy top. Tie the main stalk to a 
stout stake, as the plant is easily broken if not well 
supported, especially when top-heav}^, as a specimen 
trained in true form is likely to be. 



64 3flowet5 

Personally, I prefer the bush form, because it 
seems to be more natural to the plant, and a speci- 
men grown in this shape is more graceful in every 
way. To secure a fine specimen but little pinching 
back or training of any sort will be necessary. Let 
branches form about the base of the plant, and allow 
as many to remain as you think necessary to furnish 
the amount of flowering surface you would like. 
You will get a good many more flowers from a plant 
trained in this form than from a tree-shaped plant. 

A great deal is said each season at the flower- 
shows and in the floriculture periodicals about dis- 
budding. By this is meant the removal of most of 
the buds which form. In order to get the immense 
flowers we see at the fall exhibitions it is necessary 
to allow but few buds to develop. But the result is 
a flower that is a monstrosity. It has outgrown the 
limit of beauty. I would never advise those who 
love flowers for their own sweet sakes to attempt to 
grow this kind of chrysanthemum. It is making a 
flower that was meant to be admired for its beauty 
into a floral freak. We look upon it as we would on 
any other curiosity, and wonder takes the place of 
admiration. Leave this branch of chrysanthemum 
culture to the florists who have an ambition to excel 
each other in any way that will attract the attention 
of the public and thereby advertise them and their 



^be Cbrgeantbemum 65 

business, and be content to grow your plants in such 
a manner as to have fine flowers of ordinary size and 
as many of them as possible. 

I am often asked to name the best varieties. I 
always refuse to attempt doing this, because it is an 
almost impossible task. There are so many fine 
sorts that it is difficult to say which the best ones 
really are. It is largely a question of personal taste. 
I w^ould select the kinds that suit me best, and, by 
so doing, overlook other kinds another person might 
prefer to those I had chosen. I would advise the 
amateur who desires to form a collection of really 
fine sorts to study the catalogues of the leading 
florists, and select therefrom varieties of the colors 
he likes best. In this way he will be likel}^ to suit 
himself, and if he fails to suit his neighbor whose 
tastes are unlike his, it does not matter. 

As a general thing the Chinese sorts will be found 
,more satisfactory than the Japanese, because they have 
more regularity of form. But some of the fluffy, 
tasselly, utterly informal Japanese sorts are wonder- 
fully attractive, and all collections should include 
a few of them. 



OHArrKu X 



lU\;v''MAS 



Onr o! the mos^t popular of housie-plants is tho 
begonia. And its popularity is well deservevi. It is 
beautiful in tlower and foiiai>e. It grows well uuaoi 
oireurastances uufavon^ble to tho siAtisfaetory deveb 
opment of many plants, and doos not reipm^? more 
eaxe and attention than tho owuor of a window - 
garden can easily give it 

There are so many varieties in gevieral ouUivaiiou 
at the pi-esent tinje that no colUvtion of oixlinary 
site can include more than a very few of the most 
desirable sorts. One shonld have a greenhouse if one 
would ai\\>mn\odate the leading i-epresentatives of 
this most delightful family of plants. 

It is impossible to say which class is most popn- 
lar — tl\e tlowering or the ornamentableaveil sorts. 
All collections shonld have a few of each. 

The following varieties will be found among the 
best of the tloAvering stvtion : 

IxUBRA. — A luagniticent plant when well grown. 
Its fv^baire is beautiful, of a rich dark green, with 



Hiiiooili, flossy HUifiMM!. Its ll()\v(u-s, wITkiIi ivro \}V()- 
<1u('-(mI ill ^vc'.d profusion ilic your rouinl, jin; ji, hIiIii- 
in<^ (M)i-;iJ-r(!<l, horiK; in I;i,i-^c, sprcadiiin;, droopiii*^ 
piiiii(;i(3H. Oik; of tin; V(!ry l)(!Ht of jill lioiiH(;-phuitH. 
No (;oll(!(;l,ion, however Hiiiall, Hlioiild Ix; willioiil tliis 
(jU(!(!ii of h(!;^oiiijtH. 

VVii/roNiKNHiH. — A lov(;Iy variety, wilJi foliage of 
ri(!li, satiny tcixtun;, gnjon, vcinod on lo\v(!r side vvitli 
crimson ; llovvii's soft ros(;-(;olor, j)rodii(;('(l in 
enormous (ju:iiitiii<!S. Oik; of the iriost (l(;sira))l(! 
kinds. 

VioitNON.— IOxc.(;ll(Mii ; ri(;li vcd (lovv(;rs ; a great 
hloomor. 

(^Loiitio i)K liOititAiNK. —Another sup(;rl) sort, witli 
llowers in sik;Ii profusion tliiit the; j)|}int is almost 
covcired with them ; of fine hahit of growth ; rosy 
carmine. 

Wasiiinctoxiana.— Pure white; fine for contrast 
with the darla;r sorts. 

PitKSii)i';.\T('AitNOT. — Of strong growth ; foliage V(!ry 
larg(; ; llowers like tliost; of ruhra, hut larg(;r. 

Ilos.KKLORA. — A lre(}-growing, fre(!-llovvering sort, 
with an aJ)urKlanc(; of pnh; f)ink flowers. 

For descrif)tions of other flowering varieties the 
reader is refiirnid to tlK3 catalogues of the florists. 
Among the nK)st desirahle of the ornamental 



t>S Jf lowers 

leaved class — for oeaoral cultivatiou — the follinvinir 
deserve esptvial mention : 

Mktallu'a. — A strong-growing sort with leaves of 
bronze-green above, heavily veined and shaded below 
with dark red. A eharniiug variety to grow where 
the light can be seen through the foliage. 

Albia.— Olive-green foliage, with dark veins and 
silvery white marking's. Also a good bloomer, liav- 
ing Howei-s of white tinted witli lemon. 

Argentea GuLLArv.— a lovely sort ; foliage of 
olive shaded with bronze and red. tliiekly spotted 
with silver: a very strong, starkly grower, branch- 
ing freely, and beeoming a good-sized plant in a 
short time ; tlowei-s pale, pearly rose. 

Mariicaia Aukea. — Of drooping habit ; foliage 
very lai-ge, and thick and heavy in texture, of a rich 
green, heavily blotched, marbled, and spotted with 
white, cream, and delicate rose. Excellent for a jar- 
diniere. 

The rex begonias are always admired wlien seen 
in greenhouses, but they are not adapte^l to culture 
in the living-room. The temperatnre usually pre- 
vailing there is too dry and warm. 

The tuberous begonia is a charming summer 
flower, but must be allowed to rest in winter. 
Tubers should be potted in March and dried off in 



Novcml)er. Keep IIkjih in Untlr [)()tH, in a warm 
place, over wintcjr. No plant wiUi vvliich 1 ;un 
farnilijir is able to fmnisli a y\c\ntr hIiow ol" caAov 
than this, it conioH in all hIuuIch of red, erinjHon, 
KCiirhit, and roH(;, and ran<^(;H I'rofn dark maroon to 
ri(^li y(!llovv and punj \vhit(;. Souk; are douhh;, Hom<; 
Binghi — all beautiful. With gloxinias, fucihsiaH and 
tlKiso l)e<i;onias, oik; ean make the window-garden a 
kIiow of vivid (tolor the eiitii-e HUirmier. 

To grow tulxjrouH Ixigoiiian to perfection give them 
a soil made up wholly of le'af mold, line about nix- 
inch potH, and H(;(3 thai they never HufTf^r for water 
at the roots, but j>rovi<le good dra,inage to make Hure 
that no injury from over-wat(;ring can rcHult. Keep 
them in a light jdace, but out of strong HunHhine. 
Their Htalkn an^ very }>rittl(; and easily broken ; 
therefore tie th(;m to n(;at litth; stjd<eK, or use wire 
rods of small size. In Octolxir the j)lant will gener- 
ally begin to show signs of a desin; to rest by their 
foliage turning yellow and falling ofT. Then decrease 
the supply of water until the soil in the; pot is quite 
dry. As soon as the stalks fall ofT withhold water 
entirely, and set the pots away in some place where 
the frost cannot penetrate. In March shake the 
tubers out of the soil and repot them. Water mod- 
erately until growth begins, then as development 
increases water more freely. 



70 iflowera 

The other begonias mentioned in this chapter will 
flourish in a soil of leaf-mold and loam, rendered 
porous with sand. If you cannot get leaf-mold, use 
turfy matter, as advised in the chapter on soil. Make 
sure, always, to have good drainage. 

Begonias never do their best in a window where 
they get the hot sunshine of summer. They like 
an eastern exposure better than any other. I would 
undertake to grow them in shade rather than in 
strong sunshine. In a very light but sunless window 
they bloom well, but their flowers lack the rich color 
which they have when given the sunshine of the 
early part of the day, or that of midday, tempered 
by partial shade, as furnished by vines outside, or 
other plants between them and the glass. 

The begonia is admirably adapted for window- 
culture, because it is one of the few plants seldom 
troubled by insects. Once in a while the mealy-bug 
attacks it, but a prompt application of an infusion 
of fir-tree oil soap routs the pest. 



CHAPTER XI 



The abutilon, popularly known as flowering 
maple, because of the resemblance of its foliage to 
the leaf of the tree of that name, is one of the most 
easily cultivated plants we have. It grows well with 
the same care and attention given the geranium. It 
blooms during the greater part of the year. Its 
flowers are pendulous and bell-shaped, hence another 
of its popular names, Chinese bell-flower. Its foli- 
age is very bright and pleasing, and a specimen in 
full bloom, with its myriad flowers hanging from the 
long branches, beneath the overlapping foliage, is 
always sure to be greatly admired. It grows with 
greatest ease from cuttings. Not one in fifty will 
fail to take root in sand. The best varieties are : 

BouLE DE Neige. — Purc white. 
Golden Fleece. — Bright yellow. 
Defiance. — Rich scarlet. 
Ros^FLORUM. — Rose color. 

It can be grown as a shrub or as a small tree. 
Choose which form you like best, and give the train- 

71 



72 3flower6 

ing advised for the chrysanthemum to bring about 
the desired result. 

This phmt is seldom troubled by insects of any 
kind, and is, therefore, a general favorite with the 
amateur florist. A large specimen can be grown in 
a single season. Old plants attain a size equal to 
that of the oleander, and one will often completely 
till a bay window. When it becomes too large for the 
place in which it is kept, the limbs of the top can be 
cut back to within eight or ten inches of the crown, 
or head, of the plant, and a new growth will very 
soon result. In this way the plant can be rencAved 
from 3"ear to year. Large plants will require pots or 
tubs of good size. 

There are several varieties having ornamental 
foliage, all of which are very desirable : 

Eclipse. — Leaves strikingly marbled with yellow ; 
very fine for bracket use, as it is of drooping habit ; 
excellent. 

Souvenir de Bonn. — Upright grower, with foliage 
edged and marbled with ivory white ; a fine deco- 
rative plant. 

Thompsonii. — A variety with golden variegation ; 
also a fine bloomer — fiowers yellow, veined with red. 

The lantana has long been popular as a bedding 
plant; but it has not been grown indoors to any great 



^be Bbutilon, Xantana, anD Ibeliotrope 73 

extent. It is richly deserving of a place in every 
collection, as it blossoms profusely throughout the 
entire winter. The individual flowers are small, but 
the}^ are borne in trusses of such size that they pro- 
duce a very showy effect. Give the treatment ad- 
vised for the geranium. Pinch young plants back 
while small, to make them bushy. Do not neglect 
to do this if you want a well-formed specimen. Left 
to train itself, the lantana generally grows in strag- 
gling shape, and makes itself more noticeable for 
aAvkwardness than for grace. The following varieties 
are very fine : 

Cyclist. — Rose, with lemon eye. 

DoMREMY. — Canary yellow, changing to orange. 

Snowball. — White, with yellow eye ; beautiful. 

Favort. — Light buff, changing to pure white, 

Emile Bayard. — Orange crimson ; free bloomer. 

Old plants can be cut back year after year and re- 
newed, as advised for the abutilon. 

The heliotrope is not a showy flower. Its color is 
too subdued to make it a rival of such flowers as the 
geranium. But it is a beautiful flower, and its ex- 
quisite fragrance makes it a favorite among all who 
care for something more than mere brilliance. It is 
an excellent winter bloomer, if not allowed to bloom 
during summer. To grow it to perfection give it a 



74 JFlowcw 

soil ooutainiui: chiotly loam and sand, woll tVrtili/.od. 
It nuisl have oousivlorablo root room, and groat eui'o 
must bo taken to soo tliat it novor gotv^ drv at its 
roots. It luis a groat quantity ot vorv tlno roots 
which enables it to nuike use of large amounts of 
water daily, and the an\ouut that wouUl be ample to 
supply the neovis oi a liood-sizoli gemnium would bo 
entirely iuadi\]uate to supply the uetnls of this phu\t. 
Allow it to beeouie pot-bound, or to get dry, and the 
leaves will soon begiu to turn brown at their tips, 
and pivbably most of them will fall otT. lUiard 
ag:\inst any happening of this sort. Aim to koop 
the plant going steadily ahead from the time when 
you start it, in March or April, to the season of 
winter tloweriug. Two or three shifts will be neces- 
sary during the sci^on. Tsc enough sand to make the 
loam very open and light. Oive the plant a sin\ny 
window. It is of tn^pical origin, and can stand more 
strong sunshine than almost any other ada[>tcd to 
window culture. It is very easily givwn fivm cut- 
tings. The leading varieties are a dark violet blue, 
and a purplish lavender. 



(MfAI^TKIl XII 

TllK ^;ALLA, THK Af;AI'A\"l'II(;H, AND 'rifK r;i/)XI\IA 

I^^VKitvi'.oDY JiflrniroH ifio f;n,lla, wiOi iin \V(;jj,IUi of 
tropical lolia^^o and lin ^nmX trurrif><;t-Hliapc<l llowcrH, 
as ilif} H[)at[i() Hi\rr()\i\\<\\\\^ iiio Hpadix om wliioh the 
(l<)\V';rH pro]>or an; hortif;, is f;ill<;'l. It is u, Hiatf;ly 
plant, and ona i\i:d adds isntnUy to the atinu;ti\'oric.s« 
of any r;oll(;r;tion. I>ut a gr<;at many f)OrHonB fail 
to Hucoood witfi it. Sornr; iicX pNinty of folia^j-o, f>ut 
no (lowfiPH. Oil)(;r,s fnil to do cvcw tfiis, 

I hav(5 found tfie cuItnrr;of this f)lant very ,sirij[>lo. 
I r)ovf;r f;iil to fsrow it well if I i/\\'<; it jj, soil corrj- 
y>OH(;d lar;.^(;ly of l<;!d'-tnold rnix<;d with nincky rrjattor 
from tho odgr?s of [>ondH. With tliis F mix Homo 
Hand. I provide' ;.^ood dviuniv/c for tlio pot, for, 
t}iou;^h the ealla \H ii(\Uid\(', in its nature, it does nr>t 
like stii^nant water ;i,t its roots. Keep tlie soil wet; 
})ut do this by Jijjplyinj^ water frr;fpi(;ritly, nither than 
})y e/)rifining it about the roots of the plant. 1 }jave 
Hoen it grown in water-tiglit stone jars, the owner 
}>elieving tluit it was imfiossihle to grow it in ;iny 
other way. An exnrnination of its roots, when 
grown under these conditions, ahnost always showed 

76 



76 3F lowers 

them to be diseased. ^Stagnant water is pretty sure 
to induce decay, and when this sets in tl\e pUmt 
will not tlourish. lUit where the soil is kept wet by 
repeated applications of water, there is no danger of 
this kind to be anticipated, as all surplus water runs 
off readily. 1 make it a point to have the drainage 
as perfect as possible. The result is, 1 have never 
liad an instance of souring of the soil, no matter 
how frequently, or in what quantities water was 
applied. 

A year-old plant cannot be expected to do much 
in the way of tlowering. It has not reached the 
right stage of development. A j^lant must be at 
least two yeai*s old before it will bloom much. 

In June I put my i^lants out of doors. I leave 
them in their pots. These }>ots 1 turn on their sides, 
under a tree, or in some corner, where they will be 
out of the way, and there 1 leave them until Sep- 
tember. They receive no attention whatever. As a 
consequence the old leaves fall otf, and wlicn the 
time comes to repot the plant you will not feel sure 
you have one to repot until you dig away the hard, 
dry soil and come upon the tuber. Avhich, notwith- 
standing the parched condition of the soil contain- 
ing it, will generally be found plump and sound. 
Put this in the soil recommended for it and water it 
moderately until young leaves appear. Then give 



Zbc dalla, Bgapantbus, mb ©loiinia 77 

water freely. Soon a luxuriant growth will take 
plaee — one vastly more luxuriant and healthy than 
is ever seen from plants kept growing throughout 
the season. And later on the owner will be de- 
lighted with flowers of su(;h size and }>eauty as never 
reward tlie hopes of the person who grows the calla 
as he grows a geranium. 

There are two good reasons for growing this plant 
as I advise. One is, it must have a resting spell. 
If you refuse to give it this it will never be in a high 
condition of vigor. The other reason is, it is a treat- 
ment that imitates the condition under which the 
plant grows in its native habitat. We get it from 
JCgypt. There it grows along the Nile. In spring 
the lands bordering on the river are Hooded, and in 
the wot alluvial soil the calla makes its yearly 
growtli. When the water subsides, the hot season 
parches tlie soil about the plant, and for months it is 
apparently dead. But the return of the wet season 
again starts it into renewed growth. 

When the calla shows signs of flowering it is a 
good plan to give it a weekly application of some 
reliable fertilizer. If this is done, the plant will con- 
tinue to bloom throughout the season. Old strong 
plants, having three or four tubers with flowering 
crowns, will often have two or three blossoms at 
the same time. Such a plant is a " thing of beauty " 



78 flowers 

which one would Hke to have " last forever." Do 
not remove all the offsets that start about the main 
. root, as these furnish small foliage, Avhich adds to the 
attractiveness of the plant. 

Several varieties of calla are advertised b}^ the 
florists. But there is only one really satisfactory 
kind, and that is calia a^thiopica, the old, well- 
known " lily of the Nile." The plant, however, is in 
no sense a lily. It belongs to the family of which 
our native arum, known by the children as " Jack- 
in-the-puli)it," is a well-known representative. The 
" little gem " calla, so widely advertised, might more 
appropriately have been called " little fraud," for it 
has humbugged a great many persons. It is a poor 
bloomer, and its flowers are inferior. C. hastata, 
advertised as the " yellow calla," is valuable onl}" as 
a novelty. The same can be said of the " black 
calla." Neither are worth the room they would oc- 
cupy in the window garden. The old variety is the 
only one worth growing. 

The agapanthus is a plant not often seen in the 
ordinary window garden. But it deserves a place 
there, and it would have it were its nierits more 
generally known. It is not a bulbous plant, although 
its foliage closely resembles that of the amaryllis. 
It has thick, fleshy, half-tuberous roots, which thrust 
their crowns above the soil and throw up from their 



tibe Calla, B^apantbus, anb ©loiinia 79 

apex large quantities of foliage, and at the proper 
season, flower stalks three and four feet high, crowned 
with a great cluster of lavender-blue flowers. There 
are often as many as fifty, sixty, or seventy blossoms 
in each cluster. These are about two and a half 
inches in length, shaped like the Bermuda lily, and 
borne at the extremity of a stem starting from the 
common centre. Down the middle of each petal 
runs a lavender stripe, darker than the rest of the 
flower. The plant blooms in June of each year, as 
a general thing, and its flowers last for six weeks or 
two months. A large, fine specimen, with four or 
five flower stalks, is a magnificent ornament for the 
porch or the parlor. 

The plant succeeds in common loam. It likes a 
good deal of water while growing actively, and must 
have a good deal of pot room. If this is not given, 
it frequently cracks the stoutest pot by the enormous 
pressure of its strong roots. After it blooms and has 
completed its annual growth, reduce the supply of 
water, but never allow the plant to get dry. It is 
what is called an " evergreen " among plants of this 
class; that is, it always keeps growing more or less, 
and on this account it is not advisable to put it in 
the cellar in the winter, as this would give it some- 
what of a check at the time when it is getting ready 
to send up its annual crop of flowers. 



80 jflovvera 

I have elsewhere spoken of the desirability of the 
gloxinia for summer use. It is rich in color, and its 
color range is wide. From darkest scarlet it runs 
the gamut of red to palest rose, and from royal pur- 
ple it shades off into lilac and mauve to purest white. 
Some varieties show a white throat, while the rest of 
the flower is of solid color. Other varieties are 
edged with pure white, while some are heavily spotted 
and freckled with contrasting colors. The flowers 
are tubular in shape, with a flare at the outer 
extremity. They are produced on short stems sent 
up from the centre of the mass of leaves which often 
completely cover the pot. A strong plant will often 
have six or eight flowers at a time. Such a speci- 
men is a most attractive ornament to the window 
— something of which the amateur florist may justly 
be proud. 

But not all amateurs succeed with this plant. On 
the contrary, the majority of them fail. But success 
wdth it is reasonably certain if the following direc- 
tions are carefully observed : 

For soil, use leaf-mold or turfy matter, with a gen- 
erous mixture of sand. 

Drain the pots well. If the soil is not drained, 
decay often sets in at the base of the bulb, and 
w^hen this happens its usefulness is at an end. Be 
sure to take such precautions as will i^revent it. 



XTbe Calla, Bgapantbue, anD ©loiinia 81 

Kee^D the plants out of the hot sun. If you cannot 
give them early morning sunshine, do not give them 
any. 

Never allow water to fall upon the foliage. Like 
all other plants having a thick, hairy leaf, it is in- 
jured by moisture in condensed form. It likes a 
moist atmosphere, but the moisture must be in the 
atmosphere and not on the plant. 

The gloxinia blooms well along into fall. Then 
it begins to yield few flowers, and these will be in- 
ferior in size. Soon the foliage takes on a rusty 
look and turns yellow. In this way it gives you to 
understand that it is getting tired of its long, hard 
work throughout the season, and wants to rest. 
Gradually lessen the supply of water. When the 
leaves have ripened and fallen of! allow the soil in 
the pots to become dry. Put them away in a w^arm, 
dry place to remain during winter, and leave them 
there until spring. Then bring them out, shake the 
tubers out of the old soil, repot them, and start 
them into growth again. 



ciiArrKK xiir 

SALVIA. .1ASM1NK. ANP 01 KANPKK 

TiiK soarlot salvia— S. splendent — is an oxooUont 
plant tor the window g^uxiou if one is careful to 
keep the rod spider from it. Unless this is done it 
is soon spoiled. It should have a rielu loamy soil. 
It likes eonsidemblo water while growing. A weekly 
applioation of some good fertilizer is of givat benetit 
after it begins to bloom. It sends up great spikes 
of peculiarly-shaped tlowei^ of the richest scarlet. 
It is as intense in color as the lobelia, or cardinal 
tlower found growing along our western rivei'S. It^ 
foliage is a rich green, and the contrast of leaf and 
llower is tine and strong. It blooms with great frct^ 
dom throughout the entire winter. In spring make 
cutting's of the smaller branohes to furnish plants 
for the decoration of the out-door garden next sum- 
mer. They i\>ot ivadily in sand. Cutting the plant 
l>aek tn>ni time to time makes it bkx^m moix^ pro- 
fusely, as this tivatment leads to the production of 
branches, and each branch is terminatevl with a 
spike of tlowers as a general thing. It is hard to 
find a more brilliant and showy plant for the deoora- 
82 



Salvia, ^aemine, an& ©Ican^cr 8-5 

tioii of tho winter vviiulo\v-;^ar(l(!ii, or tin; ji;rocii- 
liousc. Ho very sun; to showed- il all ovcsrdaily, tak- 
ing es[)eciiil jKiiiis to got tho wat(!r whoro it will do 
the most good — on tli(i under side of tlui leaves. 

There are four varietii^s of jasmine Huital)le for 
culture in the window ; 

JasmiM'] lii'A'oi.uTr.M, cliinhing in lial)it, with 
golden-y callow llowoi-s. 

Jasmixi-: (UiAN'Dii'M.ouiiM. also a ernnher, with i)uro 
white llowers. 

Jasmink AUi{AN'ri('u>T, of shruhby hahit, with yel- 
low flowers. 

Jasmtxio PAKiiim, th(5 i)()|)ular '^ night-hlooming 
jasmine," with greenish-yellow llowers. 'i'his sort 
is not particularly fine as to color, hut it gives off a 
very rich and powerful odor at night, when its llow- 
ers o[)on, and on tliis account it is a general favorite. 
This, and tho proce:ling varicsty mentioned, makes a 
fine, bushy specimen of four or five feet in height. 
The two sorts first named must Ix; grown in large 
pots. They are not what might he called rampant 
growers, but will easily reach to the top of a win- 
dow. They are of most delicious fragrance. One 
or two blossoms emit an odor sufTiciently strong to 
fill a room. A large number of them give an over- 
powering odor. 



St jfUnvcri^ 

To givw tlu\<o plautv^ well poi thorn in rich, s;\niiy 
k^uu. Water fiwly when they are growing rapidlv. 
When grxnvth ot>a;?o^ water nKHierately. Out them 
l^i\ok well at\er eaeh (lowering peri oil. If they bloom 
in summer keep them in the eellar over winter. 

The oUwnder i$ everybody's favorite. A lai-go 
plant of it. grvnvn in synunetrieal form, is a lovely 
sight when ^x^veiwl witli its wealth of i\^e-eolorevl 
tlowers. Kaeh tlower is almost a suWtitute for a 
rv^se w hen semi at a little distanee. 

Tliis plant likes a sivndy soil. It also likes a great 
deal of water when making its strongest givwth, 
whieh is generally in spring auvl the early part of 
summer. You em\ hanily give too mueh. It has 
enormous quantities of very tine nx^ts^ and these 
enable it to drink up water friMu the soil with givat 
rapidity. 

If you begin right with a young plant you ean 
make it assume a symiuetrieal shape with very lit- 
tle ti\>uble. Let it grow to a height of about thi\x^ 
feet, then nip off the top, GeneriUy thiw brxnehes? 
^Yill start ne^xr the extremity of the stalk. Allow 
these to grow until they are six or eight inehes long. 
Then nip of! the ends of them. Rr^nehes will start 
frv>m their extremities. In this way you form the 
fout\dation for a head of govnl sha^^v. and you will 
have all the bn\nehes neoess;\ry to give you a thiok, 



Salvia, ^aemine, anD OlcanOcc 85 

compact phuit jiflcr tin; tliini or lonrth piricliin^. 
Aft(;r Hk; [Aiuii f>c;^inH to hlootn it will not bo ncccH- 
KJiry to do rrnH;h pruning, an }>nitiolHjH will Ht;irt Ix;- 
lovv <;;i(;li ciiiHtor of (lovvnrH, t})(5 HMJik; JiH if tlm f;riH 
liad \)iHi\\ Mip[)0(l ofT. In t';ill lr;t tlio Hoil dry out 
conHid(;r!i})ly, niid in Nov(;rn)>(;r put the f)lant into 
the collar, to romaiu ovor vvintor. 



ciiArrKU \iv 



As? a gt^neKd thin^, the amtxtour tlorkt will find 
tlio rv>$e one of the wos^^t ditlioult of tUl flowers to 
onUiviXte :^5UOoe^i«fu^y in the house* If ther<? is a 
iwl spider or a jjnvn K^use anywhere alH>uts> it will 
be sure to take up its abode on tins plant And 
thesse enemies uule^rsii fought most pei^istently and 
thotvHighly, will soon n>b the plant of its vitiUity, 
The only Wi\y to get the advantage of them is to 
take the plant in hand while young and small, and 
give it sueh eare as will prevent t!\e pests from get- 
ting any foothold on it. In this \\*ay you can make 
them unders^tand tliat no eompromise will be made 
with them, and after a time they will get diseonr- 
ageil and witiidraw their forees. But you n\ust W 
watehfuh and aet every day as if you expeeteil the 
attaek of the spider and the aphis to-morn>w. It is 
a gxxnl plan alw^iys for the grower of flowers to aet 
on the offensive n\U\er than the defensive. Don't 
wait for inseets to )>ut in an ap^H^aranee, ^lake 
it so une^nnfortable for them that they will not eare 
to att^npt to esitablisli Uiemselves imioug your 



Klo6C0t Carnations, anO 1b\2&ranflea 87 

(>l;iiiiH. \\(".[V ill iniiMl (,li;il, il in ;i, ifvcAii (leu] (^ah'm'S 
to k('(!|) Micin ;i,vvit,y lJi;ui it is to ii'cl rid of IIkjiii nJlcr 
tli(;y lia.V(; oikm; tiik(;ii |)()SS<;Hsi<>ii of your pliuii. 

To li(!5ul o(T I/Ik; red H)»id<;r fVorii your roH(;,s, dip Dw, 
|)l;iiil,s d;iily in w;i,l(;r, jillowiii;.'; iJicrii io i'(;rii;i,iji Kuh- 
ni(!r<i;<;d for ;i, niiiiiii'; or iwo. To drive ;i,\vn,y IIk; 
Jipliis, di|) iliciii ill ;i, d<;(;oeiioii of toh;t,f;f;o. Or you 
CMW make one halJi answer (>ol,li piirposfjs if piveii 
re|:^ul;irly. If you .luex-.eed in kcMjpin^ your [>la,ntH 
hcAi from l,li(;se en(!rr)i<;H ih(.'re Ih ho rcAiHon wliy you 
should not ha.v*; roses in winle'r, provided your plaiils 
})a,v(! be(!n prop(;rly ircjairid during the Hummer, a.nd 
the a,ir of th(; room in whieh you k(M!p th(im in not 
too fioi and dry. 

Got year-old ])hiiitH in Hjirlng, and put tliern in 
five or hix-ineli [)ots. Use a, soil rrjad(; up largely of 
elay or (;lay(;y loa,m. It must h(; hea,vy enougfj to 
paek about the roots firmly. A rose will not (Jo w(.'ll 
in a i)ot of light, op(;n, spongy soil. It insists on a 
soil that retains moistur(; \v(;ll, and ne*ver allows the 
[)huit to get loos(;. In ):)otting, B(;e that this soil is 
made firm and comf)aet a}>out the plant. Water 
rnod(!ra,tely. As soon as n(;w growth begins, eut 
away most of the to[) tlie [)la.nt had wlien n^eeived. 
By and by eut })aek this n(;w growtli. • On no ae.eount 
a,llow the plant to bloom. In fall you will have, if 
this treatuKait }jas been k(;pt up sb^adily all sumnjcr, 



SS JPlowcr^ 

a plant with a number of stubs instead of branches 
but these stubs will be well set with plump-looking 
buds, which are only waiting to be allowed to de- 
velop into stout, heaUliy branches, eaeli one of wliich 
will generally bear from two to half a dozen tiowers. 
If the old pot is tilled with roots, repot the plant m 
October. A seven-inch pot will be quite large enough 
for a two-year-old rose. 

Begin the preventive treatment T have advised as 
soon as your plant is brought into the house. While 
out of doors, in sunnner, such treatment may not be 
necessary. Aim to keep the temperature as near 05° 
as possible by day and UV"" lower at night. Such a 
temperature, I am well aware, cannot be secured in 
the ordinary living-room. It is therefore advisable 
to keep your roses in some room opening oif the 
room in which a tire is kept. Let them have all the 
fresh air and sunshine possible. 

In January they ought to begin to bloom. Cut 
away each tlower as soon as it begins to fade. When 
all the tlowers on a branch liave developed, cut the 
branch back, at once, to some strong bud. Keep the 
soil rich. This will stimulate constant development, 
and as long as the plant produces branches it Avill 
continue to bloom. 

The following sorts are most satisfactory for house 
culture : 



IRoses, Carnations, anO Ib^Orangca 89 

Agrippina. — Dark crimson ; very fine. 

Queen's Scarlet. — An iini)rovo(l agrippina; tlio 
flower is larger; the color is tli(; same. 

Hermosa. — One of tlie most constant varieties; 
very lloriferous ; color, bright rose ; very fine. 

Etoile I)e Lyon. — Creamy yellow; heaiitiful. 

Clotiiilde Soui'ert. — A polyantiia rose; a won- 
derful bloomer; {lowers small, but borne in large 
clusters; color, soft pink, passing to pearly white at 
the edge of the petal ; very fragrant. 

Sunset. — Fawn color, shaded with g(jlden and cop- 
per tints ; a most lovely rose. 

There are other varieties equal, or superior, to these 
in beauty, but none that adapt themselves more 
readily to the conditions which generally j)revail in 
the living-room. 

The carnation, the "divine flower," is one of the 
rose's most formidable rivals. It is not only beauti- 
ful in form and color, but it is so deliciously fragrant 
that its spicy sweetness is a source of constant delight 
of which we never tire. 

Like the rose, it is somewhat difficult to grow well 
in the house, but this can be done by the lover of 
flowers, for such a person will be willing to take par- 
ticular pains to suit its requirements. The red spider 
and the aphis like to live upon its juices, therefore 



90 jflowcrt* 

tho tivataioni advisod for the roso should bo followed 
ill its* cultivation. 

It likoj* u soil of K^iuu with hut littlo sand in it 
It does not tvquiiv a lai>»v pot for tho ti^'st six or 
eight months of its ^rmvth. Thou one of sovou 
inches >vill bo lai^ge cnoiiiih to accouiuiodaio a well 
developed plant. C^nly a moderate amount of w\ater 
will be rei\uired. I would advise keeping plants 
intendeil for winter use in pots during the suunner. 
If a tendency is shown to thixnv up tlower-stalks. 
cut thorn ol^ pi\^mptl\\ Make the plant bushy and 
compact by causiui:: it to send out a mass of shix^ts 
ue«\r its crown. This it will do if you steadily ivfusc 
to let it bh^ssom. 

Keep it in a cool ixnnn, if possible. It will do 
better in a tempenituiv of oo*^ or (U>^ than in a higher 
one. 

The ioUowing varieties are all good, and ooiuprise 
the most distinguislunl sorts: 

Mus. lUo. M. l^KAor. — A "fancy* variety; cvUor, 
white, stripiHl with scarlet : of good size, auvl a free 
bloomer. 

M.v.iOK TiNOKKK. — l.enion yolivnv. n\arked with 
pink and white: of strong habit : very tloriferous. 

Fi.OKA UiLL. — Pmv white; a very superior sort. 

Moukua>. — Briiiht scarlet. 



1RO0C0, Cnrnatloiii?, aii^ lby?&ranflca 01 

TlDAIi W'avi;. a lo\cIy llowcf, of ;i, soil, dclicnlc; 
pink ; one of ilic IVccsi Idooincrs of llic list. 

Toiri'iA. -/\ii ol(| l';i,voril,(; ; color ;i, iiiori iniciisc 
8(;arl(!i; (^xcdllcnt. 

AltMAZIiNDA.— I'lir*; wliiic, |)(:lic,il(;(| will) H<'!i|-|(;i; 

cx(juisii<;!y rrM,<j;nu)(, ; slron^j; ;jro\v*'r ;iii'l I'vcc Mooincr. 

TIk; liydnm^r;;' is too wdl known to )i(;(;<i any 
H|)('ci:il (Ios(;ri|)ti<ui. It is one o(" lliosf; y)lMJ)tH for 
wliicli \v<! form ;i i"ri<'ii<Islii|), ;i,imI ;in oM Hpccinicn 
H<;nrnH iiJnioHt like oik; ol' iiic r;i,inily. In New Kwis- 
liind, on(! ol*l,<:n se(;s hunlieH I'onr inid fi\'(; fec-i IiImI), 
and aw mnny U'ci n,cr<>ss, eonij)l<'iely eover'<!(| in sinn- 
mor will) enortnoiiH cJusl-cjrH of rosy (lowers, wliieli, 
later on,elian^;(; to a |)ii,le ijarocA). OftcMi llieHO elusl(!rH 
will l)(^ t(;n ineli(;s or more iiei'oss an<i contain liun- 
(lr(!ds of small (lowers. 'I'l"'y iire very lasting, and 
often r(;ni!iin upon tlic; pinni, for montlis. Indeed, it 
is ^(MH!r;dly neeessJiry to eut them ofT. 

This [)l;i,nt likes a rieh soil and j)l<;nl,y of room for 
its roots. It must Ix; wji,t(ired well wliile jiTowin^', 
and shoidd he lihernlly fertilized to mnke its ^;rowth 
strong and healthy. It <.';enerally (;on)pl(;te,4 its growth 
})y Sept(;mh(!r. Aft(;r that wjiter s|>arin<.dy. In No- 
veirdxjr, put it into the eftlkir, ^ivin^'; it only (^nou^di 
wat(;r to k(;(!p it from shedding its foliiii^e. In V<'.}>- 
ruary, hring it to the ligtit. Ju a .short time it will 



92 flowcw 

Ijk>^iu to jinnw Soon itj^ Inuis will appoar, and by 
Mnv u will lviih> tv^ bUnnxK U ^luniUl bo out baok 
10 $Yu\n\olrioal j^hapc wUou gwnvih i?^ boii\^^ uuuio» 
Af tiH^ that no pmuii\5? ?^iouUi Ik> ilono. as^ it will htwo 
foruunl Inuls fi>v noxt ^[>vii\5iV work, and to out away 
it^ biuuol\oji at tlu^ tiu>o would sor\ou?!^ly iutoHoi\> 
with tlK> di>vdo\>uHn\t of tho j>UuU oarly in tbo $eiV;?ou, 
Ko iu^ivi ovor n\niblo^ tb\^ l>laut. and ou thi^ ac- 
count it i^ a (a\ oriio with all lovox^ ot' tlowo^"^ Ono 
doi>$ not have to ti|?ht for suoi\^ w itii it> a;s in the 
ca$c of the rvTKje and oarnatiou. 



(llIAI'TKIt XV 

'I'lll'; I'lUMIlOSK, 'I'lIK l'lt,l.\llll-A, AND l'l>l I M I'. A<;< ) 

OnI'] of IJi(5 iriosl SiiJ/isl'nctory ol" :ill Ikmisc J)I;uiIh ia 
iho (;iiiii(;s(^ primrose. 11 r(;<|uir(;H only iiii onliiiiiry 
jiinonnl of ciiic. II is :i, very I'hm! jukI coiiHlniii 
|,|,„,,,,,:r, :ui<l il is v(;ry l..';uiiifiil. In <;<>1'>'' '<' r:i,n».';(;H 
from |)in<! wiiih; to <l;irk crimson. Tlicrc an; donMc, 
H(!mi-(loul)l<;, Jind Hin;.!;l(; v:i,ri<;l/i';s. All iuc lovely 
llow(!rM. 

Tlicn; is oim; imporiiini point ili;.,i must Ix; ol>- 
HcrviMl in lJi«MMil(in-<! of Uiis llovvcr. if |)oti«;<l low, 
tliai is, willi lli<! crown below ilio l(!V<;l of ili«; soil in 
ili(! pol, w.M,l(!r will rini in ji.nd hIiuhI then; too Iouk 
lor Ui(;{^n)o(| of IJk; plant Ixtforc it is ii.1)Sorl)r;<l \>y tin; 
Hoil. 'I'liis in(lnc(!H (l(M'-ay, :iihI ji, plniit is s<;l'lom ahlo 
to r(;('np(!r;it(; after this sets in. 'riienjfon!, Hot i\ni 
phint rather hi^li in itn pot. I hue the Hoil Mround 
it slop(; towanJH th(5 cAfiy, of the pot, so th;it wntcr, 
wIkui ii,|)plie(| In (|ii;nitity, will rnn n,w;iy from tin; 
crown, instead of (;oll<;(;tin^ Jthoui it. 

Anoth(!r it(;rn of groat irrij)ortanr;(! in this: N(;v<;r 
pnt yoiniL^ plants in largo [hAh. Six-rriontljH-old 
H<MMllinj^H should not have potH more than three or 

93 



94 3Flowec6 

four inches across the top. Keep them in these 
until the soil is full of roots. Then shift to a six- 
inch pot, which will be quite large enough for the 
plant when blooming. This plant does not have 
many or large roots, and it is made dyspeptic by 
putting it in a pot containing more soil than it can 
make use of. Its flowers are about the size of a 
silver quarter as a general thing. Some are as large 
as a half dollar. They are borne in clusters of ten 
or twenty in stems four or five inches tall, just tall 
enough to lift them well above the foliage. Not all 
the flowers in a cluster are developed at one time. 
They come on in successive stages, and thus the 
flowering period of each stalk is prolonged for a 
month or more. Often there will be three or four 
stalks of bloom at one time, with more coming. 
Perhaps the double white variety is most popular. 
I do not regard it so desirable, all things consid- 
ered, as the single .sorts, as these show a beautiful 
lemon-yellow centre, or " eye," which the fully 
double varieties do not. The effect of this " eye," 
wdien seen in a white or colored flower, is charming, 
and more than makes up for the lack of petals in the 
single sorts. There are always enough of these to 
make the flower perfectly circular in form. As a 
general thing the edges of them are fringed or 
notched. This plant is easily grown from seed. If 



Zbc iprimrose, iprimula, an& plumbago 95 

you want the double white variety, however, you 
must order it from a florist, as you can never make 
sure of getting what you want when you grow your 
plants from seed. Never shower this plant. Its 
soft, downy leaves are always injured if water stands 
on them in drops. 

Primula abeonica is a plant of the primrose 
family. It has smaller flowers, of white or pearly 
lilac, with lemon eye. These are freely produced on 
long and slender stems, at all seasons of the year. 
It is really a perpetual bloomer, but plants intended 
for winter use should not be allowed to exhaust 
themselves by summer flowering. It requires a great 
deal of water, as it has great quantities of very fine 
roots. The mealy-bug is pretty sure to attack it if 
you are not on the lookout for the pest. Shower it 
weekly with an infusion of fir-tree oil soap, taking 
care to have it get down among the leaves, for there 
is where the bug will attempt to establish himself. 
This flower is a general favorite because it has a sort 
of wildwood look and habit. It is easily grown from 
seed, or by division of the roots. 

The plumbago is a comparatively unknown flower 
in many localities. But it would be grown every- 
where if its merits were fully known. It is of the 
very easiest culture. It flourishes in almost an}^ 
soil. About the only special treatment it requires is 



96 flowery 

tliat of a sovoro aiui systouiatio outting-baok as soon 
as its bvauohos have dovelopod tho llowors which 
toriuinate thoiu. Cat each branch back to within 
three or four inches of the main stalk. In a very 
short time a new branch will be sent out, and this 
will bear tlowers. Keep the plant prtHlucing branches 
and you kee}> it blooming-. In order to facilitate the 
production ot' these branches, without which you 
will have no tlowers. as they are borne only on new 
growth, keep the soil well fertilized. The blossoms 
are shaped like those of the annual phlox, and are 
of about the same size. They are borne in loose 
spikes. In color they are a delicate lavender blue — 
a rare color among tlowers. The plant often grows 
to be six or eight feet high, with many side branches. 
Being of rather slender habit, it may need support 
of some kind. A large specimen in full bloom is 
extremely beautitul, especially if grown alongside 
white or rose-colored tlowers. It is very hard to 
make grow from cuttings. A surer way to propagate 
it is by layering. Bend down a half-ripened branch, 
half-breaking it at the point where you put it into 
the soil. Fasten it tirmly in place with sticks. 
Teave it until you are sure roots have formed. Then 
cut away its connection AA*ith the parent plant, and 
pot it. being careful not to break the delicate roots. 



CHAPTER XVI 

THE AMARYLLIS, IMANTOl'IIYLLUM, AND VALLOTTA 

TuE amaryllis is ii superb flower, but because the 
nature of the plant is not understood most amateurs 
generally fail with it. Learn to know the 2)lant and 
its requirements, and you need not fear to undertake 
the culture of it. 

It has alternate periods of growth and rest. These 
should each be made as complete as possible. That 
is, when growth is going on, encourage the plant to 
full and free development. When this is comj)leted, 
treat the plant in such a manner that rest will be as 
complete as growth was. As a general thing it is 
kept growing all tlie time, in a sort of indifferent, 
utterly unsatisfactory way, because water is applied 
regularly. This is where the mistake is made. 

As long as foliage is produced the water-supply 
should be kept up. When it ceases to send up 
leaves, cut off this supply and give just enough to 
prevent the soil from getting dry. Keep up this 
treatment until the plant shows signs of renewal of 
growth. Generally the first indication of this will 
be the sending up of a flower stalk, after which 
7 97 



leaves? Avill bo proiluood. At this tiuio apply fertilizei-s 
i*egularly, and do all you can to luako the work of 
the plant suooetNsful in the liighest domoo. Future 
sueeess depends to a great extent u[>ou the care tl\e 
plant aetsJ at this stag-e of its exist euee. If negUvtinl 
it probably will fail to give you tUnvei-s at its next 
period of growth. If well ftxl and watored. it will 
store up in the bulb the strength and energy which 
^Yill be manifested in tlowei-s later on. The plant 
under onlinary ti^eatnient is not eneoun\ged to givw 
well \Yhen it tries to groAv. and it is not alloweil to 
rest when it wants io do so, and the result is, in nine 
cases out of ten, a non-tio\Yering plant. Treat it as 
I have advise<h and I venture the prediction that 
your failures will give place to sneeess. 

It likes a ri|?h soil. One of loan\ into which at 
least a thii\l its bulk in old, black cow manure is 
mixeih >Yill gi\>w it to perteetion. Set the bulb 
about half its depth in the soil. Allow two or three 
bulbs to form about the old one. Attcr that remove 
the otVsets promptly. 

Never disturb the amaryllis unless absolutely 
nev^essary to do so. Any interferei\ee with its r^xns 
is resei\ted. and it will usually refuse to bloom for 
son\e months after tliis takes place. If necessary to 
repot it, do so very carefully, removing only as mnch 
of the old soil as will iivelv crumble awav from 



Bmar^llis, irmantopb^^Uum, anO IDallotta 99 

al)()iii the roots ol" tli(; phiut. S(;t tli(j )>ulhs in their 
new pot, and siR in tli(3 i're.sh soil ahout thcnj, Hcttling 
it hy the iihcral ap])lication of water, rather than by 
])r(3ssin;j; it down with the hand. Never ])ut tlie 
iunaryliiH in tiie eellar. It in likely to he too eold 
and dam J) thenj. 

Tiiere an.' Htivardi varicjties, all good. The Htandard 
Bort is Johnsonii, scarlet stri]>ed with greenish white. 
Equestre, rosy eriinsoii, is another very line variety. 
A stnjiig hulh should send up a stalk nearly three 
feet high, and h(iar from three to six liowers. Such 
a ])lant, when in Idoom, is a most lieautifal oljjeet, 
and one of whieh any oiKi may well he proud. 

I'he iinanto])hyUuni is a plant not often seen out- 
side the gn^enhouse, hut it deserves a place in the 
window gard(Mi, Ijecause it will llourish there much 
])etter than many plants c(jnsi(hired a[)propriate for 
the place. It is not a hulhous plant, hut its leaves 
and flowers are so similar to those of njany Ijulhous 
])lants that one is only convinced of the nature of it hy 
examination. Dig down into the soil a1)0ut it and 
you will find tliat it has a thick, fleshy root, quite 
similar to that of the agapanthus. It is propagated 
])y division of these roots. It should have precisely 
the same treatment as that advised for the agapan- 
thus. Its flowers are produced on stalks ahout a foot 
in height. There are generally from six to a dozen 



in a olu^toi\ Ii\ i»lor ihoy art> an orauge-reil. with a 
light stripe livnvn the ot>utre of the petal. Tliov aiv 
shapoil Hko Ji lily, 

Tho ValK>tta> or 8oarl>oi\>ugh lily, is ono of the 
old favorite.^ of whioh \yo cannot atTonl to Kvso sisrht. 
It ij5 a tall Moouior. It soUioiu fails to Moon\ in 
August and 8epteuiher» Kjioh stmug hulh sends up 
a stalk about a foot high, tonuinatiMl with live or six 
lily-shape^l tlowers of a rich, glowing scarlet. In 
intensity of i\>lor, they suri>j\^ any other bulbous 
tlowcr we have except the tulip. Young bulbs an^ 
fonueii in giwu quantities about the old ones> and 
the^e must be removed eAch sejxson, if you do not 
A\*;\nt the strtmgth of the plant to be expendinl in this 
dirov^tion. Oo not repot the old bulbs otten, as, like 
Uie aniaryllis, they recent any disturl>j\nee of their 
roots. In winter, the |X>t or box in which they gnnv 
can be kept in the cellar. Fertilise well during the 
summer, to gx>t them ready for fjill tlowering. 



CIIAPTICI:, XVII 



I)K(J()RA'l IViO I'LAN'l'H 



No (',<)II(!(;t,i()ii in ('A)]\r.'\<\(trc(\ coiMpIctf;, nowJuhivH, 
linlnMM it liiiH in il soinc phiiils ^I'owii Ix-chmhc, of 
iJicir IxjiLuliful rolin;j!(;. 'rii(;KO phuilH not only add 
U) lJi(! !i,itnu;iiv(! cCfcrl, of Uic, (;oll(;(;tion, \v}i<;n used 
in il, l>tiL iJicy ;i,r(! very useful for ilic rlceoi-jition of 
th(j liiill or parlor, and small spceitncns c/dw Ix; used 
to ii(lvantji<^(! on tli(; (]inn<;r-ta,l)l«!. Su^li plants liavo 
another adva.nta,^.':*; over those whieJi a,n; ^rovvri 
<;hi(!lly for their (lowers, heeause they are " in eoin- 
])ai)y dress" at all times. 

'I'Ih; lieus, or I ndia,-ruhher |)la,nt, is a genera,! 
favorite heeauso of its lar^e, thieic, ^loHsy folia|.^(;. 
\V<!ll-^rown speeim(!ns will [iav(; l(!a,ves four or five 
inches in width and (;i|iht or ten inehes in len^'th. 
'I'hey a,re a ri(;h, dark jivccai in eolor, with a, texture 
as firm, jdmost, as tha,t of hjaJJier. On this aeeount 
they withstand the ha<l efTeets of dry air and dust 
hetter than almost any other |>la,nt. (jiive it a soil 
of loam. Mov(; to rie-w fpjart(;rs from time to timo, 
a,s th(; old [)ots heeome fille<l with roots. l>o not try 
to foree ;j;rowth hy ujakin^*; tluj soil vr;ry rieh, hut 

101 



102 Jplowers 

give a weak fertilizer about once a fortnight to keep 
the plant in vigorous condition. Wash the leaves 
off weekly ; keep in a partially shaded place. 

Palms are becoming popular, but there are really 
but few varieties adapted to home culture. The 
best of these are : 

Latania Borboniga, the well-known fan-palm, 
with broad foliage ; of low, spreading habit. 

Phcenix Reclinata. — Of freer growth than latania 
borbonica, therefore more desirable. This sort has 
long leaves, which spread and curve gracefully. One 
can grow a fine specimen in two years. 

Areca Lutescens. — A graceful variety, of upright 
habit ; not as strong a grower as phoenix reclinata, 
but really more suitable for the window on this 
account. 

Chamerops Humulis. — A low-growing, sturdy sort, 
of great vigor and lasting qualities ; one of the best 
for a jardiniere or low stand ; leaves fan-shaped and 
deeply cleft, and produced in great freedom. 

To grow the palm well, it should be given a deep 
pot, as it delights in sending its roots down rather 
than spreading out to a great extent, as many plants 
will do if allowed. Give it a soil of loam. 

Never use leaf-mold or any other light, spongy soil. 
Have good drainage. Water well, but never keep the 



Becotatlvc KMants 103 

soil wet. Keep in a partially-shaded place. Shower 
the foliage daily. Wash with some insecticide once 
a month to prevent insects and scale from troublmg 
them. When a plant is used for the decoration of 
the hall or parlor, do not allow it to remain there 
for days, but take it back to the light as soon as the 
occasion that called for its use is over. No plant can 
be expected to flourish away from the light, and to 
deprive it of this for any length of time is sure to in- 
jure it. Do not attempt to grow the palm from seed. 
That takes too long. Buy young plants which have 
a good start, and thus gain a year or two of time. 

Drocenas are very ornamental plants when well 
grown. The best varieties for the amateur are : 

Individisa. — Dark green, with long, curving foliage. 
Terminalis. — Broad foliage, shaded with bronze 
and maroon. 

These plants like a soil of leaf-mold and loam. 
They must be kept quite moist at the roots, and in a 
warm atmosphere. Terminalis must have a very 
light place in which to grow, in order to bring out 
the beauty of its coloring. 

Aspidistra is, among decorative plants, what the 
geranium is among flow^ering plants. It will grow 
and do well under conditions that w^ould be sure 
death to many other plants. Give it all the water it 



104 3flower6 

wants and it will get along without any other atten- 
tion. It flourishes in sunshine and in shade. It 
does not mind dust, or dry air, and it can stand a 
good deal of cold. I have seen old plants that had 
not been repotted for years that were in fine condi- 
tion. But because of its ability to get along under 
disadvantages it should not be neglected. Give it 
good care and it will do so much better that you will 
consider your labor well paid for. It does well in a 
loamy soil. Its leaves are borne on stems sent up 
from the crown, not on branches. They are shaped 
like those of the lily of the valley, but are several 
times larger. They are thick and leathery in texture, 
and of a dark green color. Aspidistra variegata has 
stripes of creamy white, of irregular widths, running 
the length of the leaf. This is the best variety, and 
is very ornamental. Propagated easily by division 
of the roots. 

Ferns are not adapted to living-room culture, with 
the exception of nephrolepsis exaltata, or sword 
fern. This sort does well where begonias can be 
grown successfully. It is a very beautiful plant. It 
sends up dozens of long, gracefully arching fronds 
from strong crowns. A fine specimen is a veritable 
fountain of foliage. It is a good bracket plant, and 
for the centre of a pyramidal group it is one of the 
best plants we can grow. The smaller specimens are 



5)ccorati\?e planta 105 

excellent for table use. Grow it in leaf mold or turfy 
matter ; water liberally ; keep it in shade. 

One of the very finest plants of recent introduc- 
tion, for general decorative purposes, is asparagus 
sprengeri. This variety of asparagus is quite unlike 
asparagus plumosus or asparagus tenuissimus. It 
throAvs up large numbers of strong branches whicli 
grow to a length of three, four or five feet, drooping 
with utmost grace, and completely covering the pot 
in which it grows with a spring-like mass of dark- 
green foliage. For mantel decoration we have no 
plant quite equal to this. It should never be trained 
to grow up. That is not the natural direction for 
it. Let it spread out its branches and train itself, 
and you will find it always a " thing of beauty." 
Give it a soil of loam and sand, well fertihzed. 
Use a good deal of water while it is making rapid 
growth, and give it good-sized pots. It is easily 
propagated by division of its roots, which are half 
tuberous in character. I cannot too strongly recom- 
mend this plant to the attention of the amateur 
florist. Its requirements are so simple that they are 
easily complied with, and success is certain to follow 
the carrying out of the instructions given for its 
culture. It is excellent for cutting as it lasts 
well. It is destined to become one of our most 
popular and useful plants, and will take the place of 



smilax and tho vUhor variotios of a^viramis. uhioh aro 
not vory uoll adapted to gononil uso. It is ono of 
thoso ao«.vu\n\odating plants wlnoh can bo grown in 
sunsiihino or shado. and doesn't oxpoot, or want, to bo 
cvaxtxl. It is oxoollont tor hanging Uijsketj?, for iiso 
on bn\okot^, or as an edging for tho plant-tablo, which 
it ohanuingly drapos with its profnsioiv of tringv 
foliai^ro. 



CHAPTF.Il XVIII 

VINI'^S K(>1{. Till': WlNhOW (; AIM) ION 

rioiiHAi'S the best \\\\v in v;vi)\\ in Hh' window 
j^ardiMi, :ill IhingM (H)nHi(l(M>'(l, is (lie l<]n,<;lisli ivy. 

It, sl.a.ii(lM dry nir and dust a,iid liiL-h loiupdniiiiro 
and rnH|iunit and ^^vcid clKUiiACH of (cnipcraiurc as 
well as Mio aspidistra.. Ktu'j) it U'vc h-oin scale and 
im>a,ly-l)iv<;- by occasional washini^s with an infusion 
of lir-troc oil soap, a.nd i(s rich, dark ,i;rc(ai I'olia^^o 
will dolii;-ht you and lorni a, cliarniinii; IVainc for iho 
window at whicii it ,<;rows. (!ivc it a, soil of ordinary 
<;a.rdcn loani. Do not Uccp its roots wet -simply 
moist,. If possibles give tlu^ pot a place near the 
lii^dit, to do a,way witli tlu^ danger of souring of tlu^ 
soil, which sometiines takes place when the pot is 
kept too nuich in siia,d(V Ihit the pkiid- itself does 
not re(iuire siinshiiK^. It does not seem to care much 
for a strong light, even, as it sends out its branches 
near the eialing, a,nd th(\v api)i'ar to he as healthy as 
those growing nearer the ghiss. iM-cause of its a,bility 
and willingness to llourish in shadier phices than 
other pla,nts can or will, it des(>rv«>s espcM'ial atten- 
tion, as it can be used by those who have windows 

107 



108 3flovver0 

not at all adapted to the cultivation of light-loving 
plants. 

Be sure to keep its foliage clean. It is never 
pleasing when covered with dust, and it is sure to be 
injured by such an accumulation, as it closes the 
pores through which the plant breathes. I would 
traiu it along the Avindow-frame and walls on little 
hooks rather than by fastening it an3"where. If this 
is done, it is an easy matter to remove the vines for 
washing, and the chances are that the plant will not 
be neglected as it quite likely would be if it were so 
fastened to frame or wall that it was difficult of re- 
moval. 

The Modena vine is a rapid grower and its foliage 
is thick and glossy. It is also a good flowering 
plant. It blooms in September, bearing a great pro- 
fusion of small white flowers, of very pleasing fra- 
grance. It is grown from tubers, which should be 
planted in spring, in pots of rich sandy soil. It re- 
quires a good deal of water. It does best in partially 
shaded windows. In fall, when the vine begins to 
turn yellow, cut it off and set the pots containing the 
roots in a cool, dry cellar, where they should be left 
until spring. 

Cobea scandens is a very strong-growing vine. It 
will soon outgrow a window of ordinary size unless 
cut back sharply from time to time. This makes it 



IDines tor tbe Window OarDen 109 

branch finely and keeps it within bounds. It bears 
a large, bell-shaped purple flower. Cobea variegata 
has foliage beautifully marked with cream-white and 
yellow, and is a most attractive plant. No si)ecial 
treatment is required. 

The hoy a, or wax plant, is a satisfactory vine for 
a warm window. It has leaves of very tliick texture 
and its flowers are l)orne in drooping clusters. They 
are of a pearly flesli color, with a dark, star-shaped 
growth in the centre, which gives them a peculiarly 
striking appearance. If you would succeed with 
this plant disturb its roots as little as ])ossible. Keep 
it warm in winter and rather dry, unless it should be 
making growth. In its growing season it needs con- 
siderable water. Never remove the little stem on 
which flowers w^ere produced, as next season new 
flowers will appear there. Keep the ])lant free from 
mealy-bug, which is the only enemy it has so far as 
I know. It has small roots and will not require a 
large pot until two or three years old. 



CH.vrrKK \i\ 

TV> luauy of tUo dwollor^ in tht> oity tho window* 
box Is tho oixlv {\\Ailublt> sjuWtituto for j\ tlower 
ji^wxleu. Auvi uKvixY w)\o aiv i\ol oity ri^suiowis iuv 
ghul to bruxg tho Iwuity twul fmgmu^v o( the ^iiurvioii 
iuU> A HttK^ oJo!^i>r touch with their daily r\>\iud of 
dutio«5^ >rAny ti tuxnl wouu\u' who i\>uhl \xot tuul 
tiuH\ or wouKi ho t^H^ woiuy. to visit tho ^caniou. is 
r^>f»\^hod and ohoonni hy lii\g\>Tiu5Jt for a uunuoiii 
ovov t\ tlowor in tho window, Tho pvH>r of tho oUiojjs^ 
whvv^o Uvi^ jviv ^^ kvnvu of K^uity and hvi^iihtno^ 
04\u $S5\iu a UitK^ hint of what sun\n\or hoUls for nxoro 
fv>rtnnnto piH>|>U> fi\>ni tho wiudow-hox ji^u\Un\> wluoh 
oan ho <\>nstruott\i 5*0 cheaply thiU jvU oan .vtYorti it. 
Thoivtoro tho jirowinj? of tlowor^ in Ih^xos out^s^ide 
tho window 5*honld Iv oni\nin\$i\\l ovorvwhoiw not 
only {\n\onii tho \\\\vlthy> hut 0!*|Hvi{dly an\on,si^ tho 
|HHm^r ohxv^osi^ to whivin tho ^luxury of a rx>id tU^wor 
g:\t\lon !.>« ;x thinjj not to W drt^xnuxl of a$ sunong the 
po?*j^ihihtit\^ 

When wo |dan tho window-Wx we oan ^see in the 
inind> oyo j\ wi\\hh of hKvni and honuty tlxat 
tho fiuniv h;xs \n stoiv Kut this nntioi^v-ittHi K\uity 
110 



in in iri;uiy iiinLiiKMiM - in llic in;ij<nil,y ol' iiiHl-nnccH, 
I I'ool jiiHiirn!<l in M.iyin/', n(v<;r r<;;iJi/.(!(|, juid IJm; 
W'UnMii wlio li;iM liojxtd lo < njoy mo inU(^li IVoni 
Mm; I»<)X oI I1(>\V<;iM ;iI, luir wnkIovv in noirly (lii;;i,|>- 
j)()inl,(!(l, jumI WMii(l<!rM wliy hIio I'iuNmI lo ;i,U/!iin hu<m;(;hh. 
" I Ii;mI ^nunl Hoil," mIh! U'Wh »ih, pMllKiiiciilly. " I 
w:i-l-<;i'<:(l Unr |>l;i,nl,M <;v<'»y (l;iy. Wliii.l ni<>»'(! <;(>ul() I 
do? \Ui\, in l<!HH Mi.'iii ;i, nionlli .-iricr I li;i,d ;;<;(, (,|i«;m 
out ilnsy lM';,';;i,n l,o look ;i,M if lJi<;y wdft nick. Tlicir 
loaV(5H turned yellow ;ind rell off. 'lliey would M(;cni 
to try to i^row, hut tlie yoimy I<;;i,v()H woidd Hoon look 
iiH if Hiri(!k(!n with l)li^dd,. In nix weekn' tirn<; nio;d> 
of (Jiein W(;r(! de;i,d. \V;i;-i tin; liiull niin<;? 11" mo, 
wliiit w:i,H wron^-; in my trentnuint ?" 

In nine ciiHeM oui oi' len fjiilure reMullH Ironi l:iek 
of HilHutient inoiHiure in Mm; Moil. It niUMt he home 
in mind tli;i,t u, hox :i, loot or more wid*;, ten or 
tw(!lv(; ineh(!H in depth, iind three or foui' feet lonjj;, 
(!onl;iinM (juite .'I, l;i,r;';e ;i,irionnt of Moil,;i,nd to keep 
thiH moist it will he neeeHs;i,ry to Mpply w;dcr in 
lilxinil (|ii;i,ntitieM in Humm<;r. TliiM monl j)erKonH 
I'jiil to do. 'rh(;y ;i,j)ply <;nonj_^li to wet tin; Hin'hi.ee of 
the Moil oidy, ;i,nd the Moil h(;ne;il,h Hoon h(!<!Otn(!H 
alinoHt diiHt-diy. Thin <!X|»|jiinH wdiy pljintH lloiirinh 
tor a tifno and then he^in to fiide. Tli'^y <lo well 
while their rootn .'ire in Uk; moiHt Htr;i,tin»i of Hoil, 
but an Hoon :i,h tJKjy t/yX through tliiit th(!y f;iil to (iiid 



112 3f lowers 

the moisture they need and must have if develop- 
ment is to go on, and the result is failure. 

To grow plants well in window-boxes one of the 
size I have mentioned should receive not less than 
a pailful of water daily, and in very hot weather, 
especially if there are warm winds blowing, more 
than this will be required. 

It will be readily understood that a box of soil 
exi)osed on all sides will soon have the moisture ex- 
tracted from it by the warm air and the sunshine, 
which cause rapid evaporation. To guard against 
danger of this kind it is absolutely necessary to use 
water daily, or oftener, in liberal quantities. Make 
this the most important rule to follow in taking care 
of your window-box. If you do not neglect this ad- 
vice you can grow flowers as successfully in boxes at 
the window-sill as you do in the pots on your plant- 
table. Make it a part of the daily programme of 
work among your plants to apply enough every 
morning or evening to saturate the soil all through, 
and do not be satisfied unless some runs out through 
the cracks at the bottom of the box. Never let the 
moist appearance of the soil deceive you into the be- 
lief that sufficient moisture exists below. Make sure 
of it by frequent examinations. The woman who 
waters her plants on the " little-and-often " plan 
argues that they get all they need because the sur- 



TllIlinDow*:fi8oie0 113 

face of the soil appears to be moist, but her reason- 
ing is a delusion and a snare, as her plants almost 
invariably show after a little. Water regularly and 
liberally, and have no fear of injuring plants in win- 
dow-boxes by over-watering. The danger, bear in 
mind, is in the opposite direction. 

Let the top of your box be on a level with the sill 
of the window. Be sure to see that it is well sup- 
ported and fastened in place, for the weight of the 
earth in it, when damp, is considerable. If climbing 
vines are used arrange a trellis at each end, reaching 
to the top of the window, and across it. A still 
better plan is to have a rack of light wood, or a 
square frame covered with wire netting, fastened to 
the top of the window, and extending outward and 
downward like an awning, with wires, strings, or 
some similar support, for vines running up to it on 
each side from the ends of the box at the sill. Such 
an arrangement not only gives the window a pretty 
frame of greenery, but the rack or support at the top, 
will, when covered with vines, afford pleasant shade 
for the room, and be one of the most attractive 
features of the entire plan. 

Among the plants best adapted to cultivation in 
window-boxes are : Geraniums, in variety ; fuchsias, 
in variety ; heliotropes, plumbagos, begonias, pansies^ 
tea roses. 
8 



114 3f lowers 

The above will furnish flowers. The pansies and 
begonias will flourish admirably in windows having a 
good deal of shade. The plumbago is a fine plant for 
the ends of the box, as it reaches to quite a height. 

For vines to train up the trellis I would advise: 
Morning-glories, IModena vine, coboca. 

To droop over the sides of the box these will be 
found very satisfactory: Lysimachia, moneywort, 
othonna, vinca. 

For foliage: Coleus, Mad. Salleroi geranium, dro- 
cena, palm, sword fern, aspidistra. 

The petunia and nasturtium will also be found 
useful, both for floAvers and for foliage, and they can 
be trained up the trellis or over the sides of the box, 
being not at all particular in what direction they go. 

The following plants are best for north windows : 
Nephrolepsis exaltata (fern), pteris argyrea (fern), 
adiantum cuneatum (fern), Modena vine, pilogyne 
suavis, climber ; iradescantia, to droop. 

In sunny windows, almost any summer-blooming 
flower can be grown successfully. If you do not 
happen to have any of the sorts already named, and 
cannot conveniently obtain them, use whatever is at 
hand. Last year I saw a window-box filled with 
ordinary garden weeds. Some children had con- 
structed it at the window of a poor home. The seeds 
seemed to realize the dignity that had been conferred 



XiminDow-:ffioie5 115 

upon them, and that at last they had found an 
opportunity to show what they could do " with half 
a chance." And how they flourished ! They were quite 
as attractive as some cultivated plants are, and the 
children evidently enjoyed them. If there are poor 
people in your neighborhood, give them plants and 
seeds from your collection, and encourage them to 
make use of them, the coming summer, in a window- 
box garden. If a child can enjoy a weed under such 
conditions, he will be delighted with even the com- 
monest flower, and by giving him one you will be 
doing a kind deed that costs you but little, but which 
may exert a powerful influence on the child's future. 
Be generous with your flowers. 

\sAny box that will hold soil will answer for a 
window-box. One of pine, costing ten cents for ma- 
terial, will grow plants just as well as a box of tile 
costing several dollars. Those who cannot afford to 
buy a box can almost always find something that will 
answer all purposes, that can be had for the asking. 
I would be glad to see plants growing in one window 
at least of every humble home, because I know how 
much pleasure and brightness the commonest plant 
is able to bring into our lives. 

Be sure to have a window-box, and encourage 
your neighbors to have one. In a little while, if this 
were done, every home would have its summer 
window garden. 



CH AFTKK XX 

llANOlNG-RASKKrS 

Plants jjuspouded in the window add nuioh to itj^ 
attraotivouoss. Tlioro is a gmoo about a trailing 
plant that few upright growoi";? iXk?j?os^, no matter 
how comnion it is» A basket of *^ JillM)ver-the- 
givuud," or of nioueywort. w\\\ly tlunigh it is, often 
beautities a window more than a i*:\re or expensive 
phuu. 

But most persons tail to grow plants well in 
b:\;sket$. The nw^ou why they fcvil is pr^visely the 
si\me tis that whieh leads to faihirowith the window- 
box — laek of moistuiv at the rv>ots of the plants. 
Beoause a basket is rather ineonveuient to get at, it is 
ot\eii negUvteii. If water is given irreguhxrly more 
runs off than runs into the soil, and the result is the 
s;\me as when wholly negleeteil. The only way by 
whieh kvsket-phmts can be grown well is to make it 
a point to water them daily, and be sure they get 
enoivgh to reaeh all the soil about the rv>ot^, I have 
lolloweii this plan with hanging phmfc? for some 
tin\e with the best of satij^faetion : I suspend the 
plant by a eorvl running ovor a ]\ook in the ceiling. 
1U> 



Ibanatnfl^JOatJheta 117 

'PIk^ 011(1 of tlio cord fastens to a hook about iriidway 
of thewiiulow-fratJK;. When the i)lant noedn water- 
ing, I unfasten tho oikI of the (;ord and lower the 
pot, or basket, nito a pailful of water, where I leave 
it^until it has taken in all th(i water it iK^eds. TIk!!! 
it is puhed U|), and th(5 cord is fasteiKuj to its hook 
a<2;ain. If this j)Ian is followed, and tlie saturation 
of th(i soil is eoni|)l(!t(! <ia,(th tiin(!, it will not he n(!e,es 
sary to ^o throu;^h with this opcsration daily, (!X(;e[)t 
in very warm, dry wc^atlM^r. 

Another plan that works wi^ll is this : 'I'ake a fruit- 
ean, and j)uneh a small hole in the bottom of it. 
Fill it with watcjr, and |)la(Ui on the soil in the})asket. 
It ean almost aJwa,ys \h) eone(;al(;d hy tin; vin(;s^row- 
in^ in the basket. A little (5X])(irimentin<^ will enal)le 
you to wmko the hole in the (;an of just tlie ri^ht 
siz(i to allow th(i water to run throu<^di in the (|uantity 
neeessa,ry to k(!(;|) the soil moist. 

The othomia is a <j!;ood basket ])lant. in some 
localiticiS it is ealh^l " piekle plant," heeaus(i of the 
resemblance of its (leshy, (•ylindri(!al foliage to a 
miniatun; cucund)er. ft blooms very fre(?ly, and its 
l)ri^ht y(;Ilovv llowers, resembling tiny dandcjlion 
blossoms, are exceedingly che(;rful and attractive. 

Tradescantia is good, ))rovid(!d you do not give it 
90 ri(th a soil that its joints are far apart. Tf it grows 
too rapidly it does not have foliage enough to pro- 



118 ^flowers 

duce a good effect ; therefore give it a rather poor 
soil. It is well to pinch it back sharply from time 
to time, to make it branch freely. 

The pink oxalis is a charming plant for a basket, 
with its clover-like foliage and bright, rose-colored 
flowers, produced in wonderful profusion from 
November to May. In spring, allow it to rest by 
withholding water until it gets dry. Let it remain dry 
until September. Then take the tubers out of the 
soil and repot in fresh compost of sandy loam and a 
little finely-ground bone meal. 

Moneywort is a strong, rapid growler, and its pro- 
fuse foliage is always pleasing. The same is true of 
glechoma, better known as " Jill-over-the-ground," 
or " creeping Charlie." 

Lysimachia is a pretty little plant of free growth. 
Saxifraga sarmentosa, known as " strawberry plant," 
because of its habit of throwing out runners which 
produce leaves at their joints, is a very fine plant for 
a basket. Its leaves are shaped like those of a 
geranium. They are red below and olive above, 
spotted with white. The runners hang over the edge 
of its basket in little festoons of foliage smaller than 
that of the main plant. 

Vinca Harrisonii is fine, with dark green, glossy 
foliage, edged with clear 3^ellow. 

Sweet alyssum makes a good basket-plant for 



1banglng*:©asket6 119 

winter. It will bloom through the entire season if 
prevented from ripening seed. 

The " Little Beauty " fuchsia is very fine for 
basket use. It droops gracefully, and its charming 
red and violet flowers are shown to the best possible 
effect because they are turned towards you as you 
look up at them. 

Asparagus sprengerii, spoken of elsewhere, is one 
of our very best basket plants. 



en. \rrFK xxt 

A u^T OF M\soKU^v^'KOl•s ri.AM^ APAri'KP IV ori.- 

•ITKK IN THK ^Vl^•l\nV-v^AK^KX 

Tmk following lisit includes nearly all the plants? 
suitable for culture in the living-nx^ni, which have 
not Kvn mentioned in the pixxwling pagi^s: 

SrKKnx^soi.KX. — Oran^io and rod : :i vovv free 
bloomer ; desirable. 

l^ARGOXiVMs, in Yimety. — Most gx^i'geously-eol- 
ored tlowei^, pivduced freely in spring : pivbably no 
llower excels the pelargoniums in n\agniticent color- 
ing ; fn^m the shape of their tiowejrs. and their pecu- 
liar markings, thoy are often called ** pansy gerani- 
ums," 

AxTHKRicrM. — A pUmt with beautiful green and 
white tbliage and long spikes of white tlowei's : of 
easy culture: a tine plant t'or general decoi*:uivc pnr- 
post^s. 

AoAVK. — '' The (.vntury plant ;■* well adapted to 
the temperature of the living-room : the best variety 
is Queen Victoria, with a yellow varieg^ation on the 
green ixround of its thick, succulent foliage. 
120 



/n5>l0ccUancou0 plants 121 

IhiJiscus, ill va,ri(^iy. -IMniils witli rich, sliiiiin^ 
f<)lia}j;(! jukI liir{i,(; liollyliock-likf; (lowers, of criniHon, 
H(;jirl(;t iuid yellow; HiuniiKir-hlooirxir of jj r(!;il, nicrii. 

Bkowama. - -A very pretty hlue Ihnver ; of (-jiKy 
(!iiltur(;. 

KAitKiKiiDM. — A phiiil, wiUi l;tr;.',(;, (jjntuhir hjavcK of 
a V(5ry dark j^r(!(;r), Hpotied with yellow; often called 
th(! " leopiir<] pliijit" hee;iiis(^ of its spots. 

(Jac'I'i. — 'I'he hest of this exhjnsivo (;I;i.sh of plantH, 
for hoUHO (;ultur(;, is the phyllo(;af;tus a,nd Uk; epj- 
pliyilutn, l)oth fine hloorners. 

BoiKiAiNVini.KA HANhiiiMANA. - A most (;liarniing 
plant; new; it is .s}iruhl)y in }i;iJ)it, arxJ its new 
growth Ixjars seonjH of insi;i;nifie;i,nt Mowers in enp- 
shapod f)ra(;tH of hri<^ht, rosy erinison ; Uw.Ha l)nu'tK 
arc more hrilliant than most flow(!rs, and they last 
lor months; tr(!a.t this |)la,nt as yon would a ^(;ra- 
niurn and you will sueeoed wilJi it. 

('yI'IOIM'S Al/noiJVlKOiJiis. — Thci " innhn.'lla plant;" 
exe.ellent for a<pia,riums. 

(i mo VIM JO A. — A stron^^-^rowin*.'-, tree-like f)lant, 
with lon;i:, (inely-eut, lern-lik(; folia^^e; of very easy 
(niltun;; execilhjnt for hall or parlor decoration. 

.lusTiciA. — A v(;ry showy [)lant, with lar^^e h(;a,d.s 
of pink (low(}rs that la,st a long time. 

A'noiiA'i'iiM.— 1^'ine for winter; llo\v(!rs fringe-like in 
app<;aj-a,nc(!, of a soft, delic,iit(; hlue. 



122 ^flowers 

Feverfew (Pyrethrum). — A charming little plant 
with fragrant, finely-cut foliage, and flowers of pure 
white, shaped like small pompone chrysanthemums. 

SoLANUM Capsicastrum.— The old " Jerusalem 
cherry ;" a pretty plant for table decoration ; foliage 
dark green ; flowers white, succeeded by cherry-like 
fruit of a brilliant red, which hangs on the plant for 
months. 



CHAPTER XXII 

BULBS IN WINTER 

If you are going to endeavor to force bulbs into 
bloom in the house in winter, get your supply early 
in the season. Look over the fall catalogues, as they 
come in, make your selections and send off your 
order at once. Bulbs should be potted early because 
bulbs out of the ground part with their vitality 
rapidly, and those ordered and received late suffer 
greatly in consequence of this loss. 

Bulbs for out-door planting should be set, if pos- 
sible, by the middle of September, and this rule 
applies with equal force to bulbs for winter flowering. 
It is not necessary, as some imagine, to keep the 
bulbs out of the ground until late in the season in 
order to secure a late bloom. The}" are retarded 
and kept from early flowering, not by late planting, 
but by holding them back from light, warmth, and 
other conditions which influence their development. 
Hence the term "forcing," which means that w^e 
take them in hand, and oblige them to bloom at our 
pleasure at a season when they would be dormant if 
left to the management of nature. By careful treat- 

123 



luout of this kiuvl, it is possible to koop some bulbs 
almost outiroly doruuvut for a long tinu\ and this 
enables us to ivjrulate thoir Uowering soasou to a 
givat extent. We ean foree them ahead by growing 
tliem under stimulating eonditionSj or hold them in 
reserve bv kee[ui\g them under eonditions unfavor- 
able to development. The tlorists have studied this 
phase of tiorieultuiv thoroughly, and it is really 
Avouderlul to see how they regulate the growth of 
these plants in w inter. 

Having oixlereil your bulbs, inuueiiiately set about 
getting ready a eiMnpv-»st in whioh to plant them on 
their arrival. 

As g\><.Hi a soil as any is one eomposeil of ordi- 
nary g;\i\ien loam. sand, and woll-rotted oow-manure 
ia t\pial 1^1 rts. 

One-thini sand may seem t-oo large a proportion 
for the loam and manure, but it is not. Now here in 
the world are tiner, healthier bulbs grown than in 
Holland, whose soil is eompivseil of alnu^st elear 
sand. Better bulbs ean be grv.nvn in sand alone, 
properly tertili/ed. than in the richest of soils with- 
out s^md. 

Mix your oompost well. Work it over until u is 
tine and mellow. It is very important that the 
manure used is old. Fresh manure is harmful to all 
bulbous plants, out or in-d^x)r. 



Ji3ulb0 in Timfnter 125 

Bulbs <1<) not HMjuin} ;i ^roat deal of root room, 
thoroforc;, vvlion; ,s|)(;c,iiri(;n,s are grown Hingly, Im-^c. 
])()tsarc unno(;(iH,sary. I would advino, liowovor, gi-ow- 
in<^ several 1)u1))H in Uic h;uih; pot. TIk; efVcoi in mon; 
pleaHin<^ heojuiHo of Uk; ^niiiicr iiin,ss of color ob- 
tained in a lirnitod Hpac*;. I'lirco or- four liyacintliH, 
tuli[)H, or (lafTodil.s can Ix; grown HUcccsHfuIly in a 
Heven-inch j)ot. Half n dozen (;roeuH(;H or,snowdro[>s 
will be refiuired to (ill a .six-ineli pot. ThvcAt or four 
average-Hized bulbs of lb*; licrnnidji, lily can be 
grown in a ten-incb |)ot. if tbe larg(!st-si/(;(l bulbs 
are grown, use but one in a Hevcn-incb pot. 

Water your bulbs well wIkjii you pot tbcrn. Then 
H(!t them at onee in the cellar, or wlierevcir you decide 
to keep them while tlu^y are develo|)ing roots. The 
cellar is generally advised, beeause it is lilajly to be 
most c(>nvenient, and the conditions genf;rally }>rc- 
vailing there are those most favonible to tb(; bulbs 
id this stage of tbcMr existence. liui any plaric will 
answer that is cool and djirk, or c;in be made so. An 
old shed, an over-turned dry-goods box, or a trench 
ill IJh; ground covered with boards, coal ash(;s, leavers 
— almost anytliing to exclude liglit — will give nearly 
as good results as a cellar, f)rovided th(i necessary 
degree of coolness is secured. Builds can })e left in 
such j)laces until cold weathc^r sets in, by which time 
they ought to be fairly rooted. Slight ireezing does 



126 3f lowers 

not hurt them, but, in my opinion, hard freezing 
does. It is not harmful to bulbs in the ground, be- 
cause its effects are overcome gradually and naturally 
in spring. I therefore advise removing bulbs put 
out of doors to form roots to some place free from 
frost before freezing weather sets in. 

Many persons fail to see why it is necessary to pot 
bulbs and put them away to form roots under the 
conditions here described. '' Why not put them in 
the window as soon as potted ?'" they ask. I think 
I can satisfactorily explain Avhy we do this. When 
planted the bulb has no working roots. There is 
nothing, save the vitality stored up in the bulb, to 
develop or support the development of top growth , 
In the natural order of things, roots should be formed 
first. While the weather is cool and there is an 
absence of light, there is nothing to encourage top 
growth ; but these are precisely the conditions under 
which newly-planted bulbs form roots, and put 
themselves in shape for next season's work. When 
the roots are formed the plant will, at the coming of 
warm weather, put forth leaves and get ready for 
flowering. A bulb with strong roots is in a condi- 
tion to do this work well as soon as you bring it to 
the light and warmth of the window. But without 
these roots the development of top growth, which 
light and warmth would encourage to begin at once, 



JBulbs in IXXintct 127 

must naturally be weak, because there is nothing to 
support it save the vitality in the bulb, which is not 
sufficient in itself to bring about perfect develop- 
ment. Development of root and top cannot satis- 
factorily go on at the same time, because the top will 
be making demands which the roots are not in a 
condition to meet. But if roots are formed before 
this demand begins, the plant is in shape to develop 
healthily when the chance is given to do so. There- 
fore, if you would grow bulbs well, give them from 
six weeks to two months in which to make roots be- 
fore you encourage them to do anything else. 

Be sure your plant has made a good growth of 
roots before you bring it to the wdndow. But it is not 
necessary to take a plant out of its dark closet as 
soon as these roots have been formed. It can safely 
be left there for some time after this if you desire to 
delay the blooming period. If any persist, as some 
will, because of exciting conditions which prevailed 
before they were planted, in putting up flower stalks 
before there is a satisfactory development of roots, 
they will have to be brought out of retirement at 
once, for to leave them in the dark after they have 
begun to form buds is to incur the danger of blight. 

Provide drainage for your bulbs the same as you 
would for any other plant. Bulbs are really more 
susceptible to injury from insufficient drainage than 



128 3f lowers 

ordinary plants are, and you cannot expect to grow 
them well if the soil about them is heavy and wet. 
The young, tender roots become diseased and the 
result is inferior flowers or none at all. 

Set tulips and daffodils so that their crowns will 
be about an inch below the surface of the soil. Do 
not quite cover hyacinths. 

The Bermuda lily should be planted in deep 
pots. Put in a shallow layer of soil over the drain- 
age material when you pot bulbs of this plant, and 
on this place the bulb, which should be just covered 
lightly. Leave it like this until a stalk starts. Then 
fill in about this stalk, as it reaches up, until the 
pot is full or nearly so. This may seem a somewhat 
strange manner in which to grow a plant, but there 
is a good reason back of it. While the vital part of 
a lily is in the bulb, it sends out roots from the stalk 
which it throws out above the bulb. Therefore, unless 
the bulb is planted deeply there will be only a thin 
stratum of soil in which the stalk can put forth 
these roots, which not only help to feed the plant by 
drawing nutriment from the soil, but also strengthen 
and support the stalk by acting as braces to it. 
Lilies planted with their crown near the surface of 
the soil will have to be tied to stakes to prevent 
their being broken off, but deeply planted ones will 
need no support of this kind. Bear this in mind, 



Mvilb^ in Mtntet 120 

and set your lily bulbs well down in their pots, fill- 
ing in as the flower-stalk develops if you would 
grow this most lovely flower to perfection. 

I would not advise the use of any fertilizer after 
bringing a plant to the light, if the compost in which 
it is planted is ordinarily rich in nutriment. Devel- 
opment is quite likely to be sufficiently rapid in soil 
of moderate richness. The application of a stimu- 
lant will so hasten it that it will be forced beyond a 
healthy limit. 

When you bring up your plants do not place them 
at once in a warm room. A room adjoining one in 
which there is a fire is better for them, if it is frost- 
proof, than one in which the temperature is likely to 
run up to 65° or 70°. 

When in bloom, keep them as cool as possible if 
you want the flowers to last. 

I am often asked to name a selection of bulbs for 
winter use for those who are not familiar enough 
with them to make their own selection. This I do 
not like to do, because my selection would be made 
along the lines of individual taste, and what pleases 
me best might not be satisfactor}^ to another. There- 
fore I think it well to briefly allude to some of the 
leading characteristics of the bulbs most desirable 
for forcing, and let each person select for himself. 

Tulips have large flowers, of many colors, some of 
9 



130 flowers 

them exceedingly rich and brilliant. They produce 
but one flower to a bulb. This will be on a stalk 
six or eight inches tall. The single sorts are best for 
forcing. 

Hyacinths of the ordinary class send up but one 
flower-spike from each bulb, but that spike, wdiich 
will be from six to eight inches in height, will be 
clothed with bloom nearly its entire length, therefore 
the effect produced is much more satisfactory, where 
a mass of color is desired, than that of the tulip. The 
single hyacinths are preferable to the double ones, as 
their flowers are smaller, and do not crowd each 
other so as to obliterate their individuality, as the 
double sorts are likely to do. 

Roman hyacinths send up several stalks from the 
same bulb. Their flowers, which are single, are 
loosely arrayed along the stem, and are really the 
most graceful of any of the family. They come in 
white, pink, blue, and pale yellow. The ordinary 
hyacinth of the garden has a wider range of color. 
All hyacinths are very fragrant, and as they are of 
the easiest culture, they demand a foremost place in 
the list of desirable plants for pot culture. The 
amateur is much more likely to succeed with them 
than with the tulip. 

The daffodil or narcissus is one of the loveliest of 
flowers. The best forcing varieties are ,• 



mwlbs in Winter 131 

Early Paper. — White. 
Van Sion. — Clear ^^ellow. 
Double Roman. — White and orange. 
Income ARABLLS Plenus. — Pale yellow perianth, 
with orange cup. 

Stella Alba. — Pure white, with cup of gold. 
Trumpet Major. — Yellow and cream white. 

The popular " Chinese Sacred Lily " is a narcissus 
of the polyanthus class, and can be grown in soil or 
water. 

The Bermuda lily, catalogued as Lily Harrisii, and 
popularly known as the " Easter Lily," because it is 
extensively grown for decoration at Easter-time, is 
one of the most satisfactory of all bulbs, since it 
is almost sure to bloom if ordinary care is given it. 
And no flower excels it in stately grace or lovely 
purity. If I could have but one bulb for winter use 
it should be this. 



CHAPTER XXIII 

HOW TO MAKE AND CARE FOR THE LAWN 

The village home, and the home of the farmer as 
well, is never what it may be, or what it ought to be, 
unless it has its lawn. This may be small, — so small, 
indeed, that to give it the name of lawn seems almost 
like burlesque, — but the fear of laying one's self open 
to ridicule by giving a modest bit of ground too pre- 
tentious a name should not deter one from making 
the most of the opportunity to improve the home 
grounds. 

Lawn-making on a large scale is quite unlike 
amateur lawn-making, because it can be done by the 
use of machinery specially constructed for the pur- 
pose, and under the supervision of men skilled in the 
work. There is a plan by which one may work, and 
the development goes on with a system which brings 
about definite and most satisfactory results. There 
is no haphazard work about it. 

On the home grounds, where the lawn can be only 
a part of a small lot, no very elaborate arrangement 
is possible ; but before anything is done it is always 
advisable to study the situation, and have some 
definite idea of what you are going to do. 
132 



1bow to ^a?ie anD Care for tbe Xawn 133 

If the house stands in the centre of a compara- 
tively level lot, it will generally be found most satis- 
factory to have the ground slope away evenly from 
it on all sides. If a cellar has been dug, or much 
earth thrown out in making the foundation of the 
house, there will be considerable available material 
on hand which can be filled in next to the house in 
such a manner as to produce the necessary slope 
there. But if there is but little of this material there, 
or the lot is of considerable size, it will be necessary 
to do a good deal of filling in, if grading is not prac- 
ticable. Where this can be done, the soil can be 
scraped from the edges of the lot to the vicinity of 
the house until there is enough there to produce the 
desired slope. But this plan cannot be made to 
work on lots of much size, as not enough material 
can be spared from the edges of the lot. The best 
thing to do is to have earth drawn in on the premises. 

Some persons get the idea that the kind of soil 
used in making a lawn is of little importance. This 
is a mistake. The soil, in order to produce good 
results, should be quite rich. A good growth of 
sward cannot be expected from a soil lacking in fer- 
tility. . Therefore, if the material used is not what it 
ought to be in this respect, be sure that it is enriched 
before sowing any seed upon it. Old, well-rotted 
manures from the horse and cow stables are good, but 



134 3flower6 

there is always the possibility of introducing weeds 
by their use. If one has to buy his fertilizer, I 
would advise the use of bone-meal, or some of the 
many reliable fertilizers on the market, as these pro- 
duce prompt and satisfactory results, and no weeds 
can come from them. Do not be satisfied with a 
simple application to the surface of the soil, but 
apply it in liberal quantities, and have it worked well 
into the soil. This advice applies to whatever kind 
of manure is used. It should get down to where the 
roots are to be when the sward is grown. 

Before sowing the lawn, care should be taken to 
have the soil fine and even. To secure this condi- 
tion, go over it several times with the hoe and the 
rake. Use the hoe to break apart all clods, and do 
not be satisfied until they are thoroughly broken up. 
What you want as a foundation for a good lawn is a 
soil that is fine and mellow, and alike in this respect 
in all parts of it. If you only half do the work of 
preparing it, you will have fine and mellow patches 
alternating with hard and lumpy ones, and the effect 
will be readily discernible in the appearance of the 
sward. After breaking up all the lumps with the 
hoe, go over the ground with an iron rake. You will 
find that this works many unseen lumps to the sur- 
face, and these should be pulverized in turn. Then 
go over it again and again — keep at it, indeed, until 



Ibow to /nbafte anO Care for tbe Xawn 135 

you are unable to bring any more lumps to the sur- 
face. When you have the soil so finely pulverized 
that there are no lumps — and not till then — your 
lawn will be ready to receive the seed. 

If there are any hollows or depressions, be sure to 
see that the soil that is put into them to bring them 
to the prevailing level is made firm. If this is not 
done, and the soil is left loose, as when dumped or 
scraped in, it will settle after a time, under the influ- 
ence of heavy rains, and you will have an uneven 
surface. This can be prevented, if care is taken to 
beat down all such places until the soil has the same 
firm compactness there as elsewhere. Some prefer to 
grade their lawns one season, and let them remain 
without sowing until the next season, thus giving the 
soil a chance to settle thoroughly. I do not consider 
this necessary, if pains be taken to make the soil 
firm, A good instrument with which to do this is 
iriade by fastening a block of wood to a handle, 
something like the old-fashioned " pounder " which 
women use in " pounding out clothes '• as a prelim- 
inary part of the operations of washing-day. It 
should not be so heavy that it cannot be used to 
advantage, but the heavier it is the more effective 
its work. 

Care should be taken to see that all necessary 
work is done before seed-sowing, as after that but 



136 ^flowers 

little can be done Avithout seriously interfering with 
the well-being of the sward. Do not be in too great 
a hurry to have your lawn completed, for one does 
not make a lawn every year, and when he does make 
it he wants it to be something that will be satisfae- 
tory. In order to have it so, every part of the work 
about it must bo done carefully and well. This fact 
cannot be too lirmly impressed upon the mind of the 
amateur lawn-maker. Therefore, I say again, take 
time for it, and slight nothing. Remember that you 
are doing something which, if not satisfactory, can 
hardly be undone and made over next season. There 
is no reason why a lawn, if well made, and well 
cared for, should not last for years, or a lifetime. 

One cannot be too careful in the selection of seed. 
Almost every dealer in agricultural wares has what 
he calls lawn-grass seed on sale, but in many in- 
stx^nces the mixture is a cheap one, and the use of it 
will give most unsatisfactory results. What is 
wanted is a mixture of seeds of grasses having a 
tendency to make a low and spreading growth — some- 
thing that " stools out " until the sward is thick and 
deep, and feels under the foot like the pile of a velvet 
carpet. I find that it always pays to send to some 
of the old seed firms who have built up a reputation 
by years of honest dealing, and get the mixture they 
oUer. You may have to pay more for them, but you 



Ibow to /llbaKc anD Care foe tbe Xawn 137 

may V)e rea8ona})]y sure of getting something that 
will give satisfaetion, for such dealers cannot afford 
to send out an inferior article. 

One important thing to rememl^er is to use seed 
liherally. Thinly-sowed lawns have to be given a 
longer time to develop than is required by those on 
which seed has oeen used in large quantities. ^ The 
grass must thicken before it will make a good sward. 
By thick sowing a similar result can be obtained the 
first season. In purchasing seed it is always well to 
let the dealer of whom you buy it know the size of 
your lot, and leave it to him to determine the quan- 
tity of seed you will need. You need not be afraid 
of his taking the advantage of you, for, as I have 
already said, he has a reputation for fair dealing 
which will prevent him from doing this. 

In sowing the seed, choose a still day. If the* 
wind blows ever so slightly, you will not be able to 
sow it evenly, because most of it is light as dust, and 
a puff of air will send it from your hand in such a 
manner that some of it may be carried to ground 
which you have already sown, while that fVjr which 
you intend it may get none at all. it is a good plan 
to get some man used to sowing grass-seed to do this 
part of the work for you, if possible. If you cannot 
do this, it is well 1o go over the ground twice, once 
from east to west, and once from north to south. By 



138 jplowers 

cross-sowing you will be likely to get the seed scat- 
tered with comparative evenness. If you have a 
small iron roller, or any device that is similar, it is a 
very good plan to go over the ground wdth it, imme- 
diately after sowing the seed, to force it into the soil, 
and thus prevent its being blown away. But do not 
use a rake on it, as some do. 

I would not begin to mow a new lawn until the 
grass has growm to a height of three or four inches, 
and then I would not cut it very close. To do this, 
at this stage, often injures the sward greatly. I would 
clip it about twice a week, for the first summer, if the 
season is an ordinarily moist one. If very dry, I 
would not use the mower so often. It is a great mis- 
take to keep your grass cut too close. There must 
be enough of the grass-blade at the root of the plant 
left to make a good showing of green if one expects 
the sward to look well. Cutting close — and some 
almost shave the turf — gives the sward a brown look, 
because the crown of the plant and the dead leaves 
usually found there have a chance to show through 
the few green leaves left. If the season is a dry one, 
and 3"ou live in a town having water facilities, you 
can benefit the lawn greatly by wetting it down well 
every evening. To do this, 3^ou must use a good deal 
of water, and shift the hose about so that all parts 
are reached })y it. But do not begin to do this unless 



1bow to /Iftalie anD dare fot tbe Xawn 139 

you can do it thoroughly, and keep it up as long as 
necessary. Spasmodic attentions are always harmful. 
If you live in the country, where there is no system 
of water-works, it is not worth while to attempt to 
supply needed moisture by any manner of Avatering 
available there, because it is impossible to apply 
enough water to do any good. One could spend 
his whole time in applying water with a pail or a 
watering-pot without benefiting the lawn in the least. 
After the first season, most lawns will be in a condi- 
tion to stand dry weather pretty well without artifi- 
cial watering, because they will have so thick a sward 
that the moisture of the soil is prevented from evapo- 
rating rapidly by the shade it furnishes. 

It is a most excellent plan to give the lawn a 
dressing of bone-meal every fall, before snow comes. 
This dissolves under the action of the elements, and 
finds its way to the roots of the grass, and the result 
is a strong, early growth of healthy character. In 
June give another application of the fertilizer. Let 
it be liberal, each time. In this way you keep up 
the fertility of the soil, which it is absolutely neces- 
sary to do if you expect your lawn to continue to be 
the ''thing of beauty " you will make it if you follow 
out these instructions carefully. In raking off the 
clippings, never use a sharp-toothed rake, for it is 
sure to tear the soil, but provide yourself with a wire 
rake made for lawn use. 



CHAPTER XXIV 

PLANTING THE LAWN 

About the first thing many persons do, after mak- 
ing a lawn, is to spoil it by planting shrubbery all 
over it. Most persons lose sight of the fact, or are 
ignorant of it, that one cannot have a fine lawn if 
there are many shrubs growing on it, neither will 
the shrubs develop well in a soil partly given up to 
grass. You will be doing a good deal of unnecessar}^ 
work — work that does not need doing if shrubs are 
to take the place of grass. Let the lawn proper be 
lawn, and choose a place for j^our shrubs where they 
will not be at v/ar with the sward. Of course, sward 
can grow among them, but it must be kept away 
from them, or they will be choked and starved out. 
By this I mean that in order to give a shrub a 
chance it will be necessary to keep the grass cut 
away a foot and a half or two feet on all sides of it, 
and to do this on the open lawn would make a sorry 
sight of it. Therefore do not plant your lawn in 
such a manner that you will spoil it by cutting out 
half the sward in it. 

The primary idea of a lawn is a stretch of green 
140 



{Planting tbe ILawn 141 

sward between house and street, or, at any rate, near 
the house, and its object is to afford a restful bit of 
color for the eye, and to isolate the house, in a sense, 
from the public highway. It is the sign of separa- 
tion of home from the outside world, and the 
broader its expanse the more privacy and seclusion 
it gives to the home. But a small lawn serves to 
carry out this idea of seclusion to a considerable ex- 
tent, provided it is not spoiled by breaking up the 
sweep of it by planting too many shrubs there. If 
this is done, the sense of distance and privacy is de- 
stroyed, and the impression given is not half as 
pleasing as that resulting from a lawn entirely with- 
out shrubs. 

I would not advise one to discard shrubs alto- 
gether, however, on even a very small lawn, but 
rather to plant them in such a manner that a por- 
tion of it near the house, and between it and the 
road or street, if possible, be left unbroken. Shrubs 
can be planted at the sides, and when confined there 
they help to carry out the suggestion of a separation 
of your property from your neighbor's. 

But, for good taste's sake, do not make the all too 
common mistake of planting your shrubbery in 
rows, or in groups that recur with the regularity of 
apple trees in an orchard. Aim to avoid all arrange- 
ments that will suggest formality, Before planting 



142 flowers 

the lawn I would advise you to go to the fields and 
see how Nature arranges her shrubs in corners where 
she has not been interfered with. The growth of 
bushes along the edge of a held will afford you some 
valuable hints about planting shrubs along the edge 
of your lawn. There will be no prim regularity 
there, no straight rows, but a simplicity that is the 
perfection of artistic arrangement. Because, you 
will find, if you take the trou])le to stud}^ into itj 
that Nature is always artistic because she is always 
simple and direct. When she aims to carry out an 
idea she goes straight to the heart of it, and in the 
simplest fashion possible. She is governed by her 
instincts, which are unerring, and, therefore, she 
never makes a mistake. You cannot learn the les- 
son of the hedge-rows and the fence-corners in a day, 
but you can get some idea of the line along which 
Nature works, and you can imitate her to some ex- 
tent, and tliat will be much better than imitating 
your neiglibors, for the probability is that in doing 
that you will be copying a mistake, and the more a 
mistake is copied the greater tlie departure is from 
whatever similarity there ^vas to the original idea at 
the beginning. In perpetuating a mistake b}^ repe- 
tition of it, we almost invariably exaggerate its most 
objectionable features. 

Care must be taken to plant in the background 



Iplanting tbe Xavvn 143 

such shrubs as are of tall growth. In order to do 
this you must understand the habit of growth of the 
kinds you decide to use, or you may get them in the 
wrong place. We frequently see collections of shrub- 
bery in which those in the foreground completely 
hide those behind them. When w^e see anything of 
this kind it is safe to conclude that whoever planted 
them did not understand much about the habit of 
the shrubs he selected. 

I will give a list of such shrubs as I would recom- 
mend for general planting, with the height to which 
they generally grow : 

Lilacs, old-fashioned sorts, eight to twelve feet; 
Persian varieties, five to seven feet. 

Hydrangea paniculata, four to five feet. 

Weigelias, three to four feet. 

Spireas, three to four feet. 

Amygdalus (ahiiond), three to four feet. 

Pyrus Japonica (Japan quince), two and one-half 
to three feet. 

Flowering currant, five to six feet. 

Syringa, five to six feet. 

Honeysuckles, six to eight feet. 

Deutzia, two to three feet. 

Berberry, six to eight feet. 

Exochorda, ten to fifteen feet. 

I have named a dozen shrubs. The list could be 



144 jflowcrs 

greatl}^ extended, but I do not consider it advisable 
to add to it, because I never advise the amateur to 
attempt the cultivation of plants requiring peculiar 
treatment, or of those not hardy enough to stand 
our Northern winters. Because I have named but a 
dozen kinds it does not follow that I Avould advise 
the use of but a dozen shrubs, for there are so many 
varieties among the dozen that a large lawn could be 
stocked with the kinds named without duplicating 
any variety. A few good ones will prove vastly 
more satisfactory, however, than a large number of 
inferior ones. We generally make the serious mis- 
take of planting three or four times as many shrubs 
as the law^i wdll stand, because at planting time they 
are so small that they produce but little show and 
occupy but little space, and we lose sight of the fact 
that if they grow and develop well they will, in a few 
years, become crowded, and nothing about the home 
grounds is more unsatisfactory than a thicket of 
shrubl_^ery in which every shrub loses its individ- 
uality and interferes with its neighbor to such an 
extent that all are made weak and inferior. When 
you plant shrubs remember that nearly all will, 
when fully developed, have a spread of from four to 
six feet, and plant accordingly. If you group them, 
of course the plants of which the group is composed 
can be set closer together, but leave a space about 



Iplanttns tbe ILawn 145 

the group the same as you would about a single 
shrub, for the effect of a group of shrubs is that of 
one large shrub. Therefore, before planting your 
lawn, go over the list of shrubs given above, if your 
selection is made from it, and select according to size 
to fit the various places at which you will plant. I 
would suggest that you draw up a diagram of your 
grounds and mark on it the place for each shrub 
before you begin to plant. By doing this you will 
not be likely to make any mistakes if you have 
studied the list and are governed by the figures 
given there. 

I am an advocate of the system of grouping our 
smaller shrubs. Much finer effects are secured in 
this way than when the shrubs are planted singly. 
Take the deutzia as an illustration. One plant is 
charming, so far as it goes, but there is not enough 
of it to produce a strong effect. But plant four or 
five in a group, and you get an effect that is striking 
because the breadth of it gives the dignity and 
strength seldom possessed by a single plant. It is 
true that sometimes we see fine, large specimens of 
this and other shrubs of similar habit of growth, but 
not often, and my advice is based on the size to 
which they generally grow. The hydrangea, planted 
singly, makes an attractive shrub, but no one under- 
stands the capabilities of the plant for grand decora- 
10 



146 3Flo\vcr3 

live effect until ho lias soon it growing in masses. 
And Avhat is true of the hydrangea is true of most 
medium sized and all small shrubs. But be sure to 
treat your groups precisely as you would such shrubs 
as do not stand grouping well, like the lilac, and 
isolate thoni from other groups. In other words, 
consider a group as a shrub of greater size than the 
ordinary, and treat it accordingly. 

Bear in mind what I have said about formality. 
Avoid straight rows and regular distances. Let the 
shrubbery grounds curve along the edges of the lawn 
without breaking over into it. 

I would not plant shrubs near the house. They 
interfere with the freedom of view and destroy the 
el^Vct gained by planting them at the sides of the 
lawn. If you must have tiowers there, use such 
summer plants as the dahlia, salvia, or canna. 

In planting shrubs be sure to have the soil rich 
and nu41ow. and do the work carefully and thor- 
oughly. Do not dig a little hole, as many do. and 
crowd the roots of the plants into it in a tangled 
mass, and then tramp the soil down upon them 
roughly. ^lake the hole large enough to allow of 
straiglitening out the roots in a natural manner, and 
then scatter soil over them and work it in among 
them with your lingers. When they are covered, 
apply water enough to thoroughly settle the soil, 



IPlanting tbe Xavvn 147 

after which fill in about the plant until you have 
disposed of all the earth. If the season is a very 
dry one, it may be necessary to water newly-set 
plants occasionally, but in ordinary seasons the 
watering given at planting-time will be sufficient to 
keep the roots moist until tlie plant gets a start. It 
pays to do this part of the work well. If you do it 
in a slovenly manner it is quite evident that the 
care of the shrub in the future will be slovenly, and 
shrubs given such treatment cannot be expected to 
give much satisfaction. The man or woman who 
has a genuine love for these things will be willing to 
give them good care, and only by doing this can 
success be attained with them. My definition of 
success in plant-growing is — getting out of a plant 
all that is in it. This can only be done by studying 
its habits and needs, and treating it accordingly. 

It wdll be noticed that I have said nothing about 
roses. I did not omit them from the list because I 
would advise omitting them from the garden, but 
because I do not consider the rose suitable for plant- 
ing in prominent positions on the lawn. It does not 
attain a size that gives it dignity enough for such a 
position, even when grouped, and it is not to be de- 
pended on to come through the winter in good con- 
dition. By all means have roses — and a good many 
of them — but give them a place by themselves, in 



148 3flo\vcr3 

the most sheltered nook of your garden, where you 
can give them protection in winter without making 
an unsightly spot on the lawn. Hardy shruhs are 
beautiful in winter, when their branches show against 
a background of snow with all the delicacy and dis- 
tinctness of an etcher's lines, but a barrack of boards 
about a rose-bed woi^ld hardl}' add to the attraction 
of a winter lawn. 



CHAPTER XXV 

THE OUT-DOOR GARDEN 

Too frequently the summer flower-garden is un- 
satisfactory. Often, quite disappointing. There is 
lack of system and harmony in its arrangements 
which might have been avoided in a great degree, or 
altogether, if proper forethought had been exercised. 

Many amateur florists wait until the time for 
garden-making is at hand before giving any thought 
to the matter. They have not decided on any plan 
or arrangement of beds, or of plants to grow in 
them. They seem inclined to " trust to luck " and 
the " inspirations of the moment " for things to turn 
out satisfactorily, and this they seldom do. " Luck " 
cannot be depended on in such matters. 

The only way to secure a satisfactory result in the 
flower-garden is by giving it careful study. Decide 
on what you can do, or at any rate, what you would 
like to do, and think the matter over well before you 
begin operation. Do not make elaborate plans 
when you have the least reason to doubt your abil- 
ity to carry them forward to successful com])letion. 
Don't undertake more than you can easily do. 
Don't attempt to have everything that is worth 

149 



150 3f lowers 

growing in }- our garden. The ordinary home-garden 
can include but a small share of all really desirable 
plants. Select a few of the best, but only as many 
as you feel sure of being able to properly cultivate, 
remembering, alwa^^s, that a few plants well grown 
are sure to afford pleasure to yourself and friends, 
while a great many poorly grown ones are a source 
of vexation and disappointment. Quality should be 
considered as of more importance than quantity. 

Do not aim to have your garden like that of any 
one else. Be original. Much of the pleasure de- 
rived from flower-gardening operations consists in 
planning to suit the owner's ideas of the fitness of 
things, rather than in copying the designs of others. 

Do not go to ivork with a great deal of enthu- 
siasm, setting out to accomplish great things, then 
become " weary in well-doing," and end by letting 
your garden grow up with weeds. Unless you feel 
sure that you are willing to do a good deal of hard 
work in weeding and hoeing and transplanting — 
unless you have enough resolution and perseverance 
to give your garden the attention it needs all through 
the season, do not attempt to have one. 

If you have never had a garden, and do not fully 
understand the demands it will make upon your 
time and labor, start out in a very conservative way. 
Have a small one this year. Next year have a larger 



Z\yc ®ut*2)ooc 0arDen 151 

one if the success of this year warrants you in at- 
tempting it. It may be that one year's experience 
will convince you that it is not desirable to attempt 
having any. But I do not fear such a result if you 
really love flowers, and only those who really love 
them should attempt to grow them. 

Never allow the " design " of a bed to give you 
more concern than what you put in it. As a general 
thing, the anicateur gardener will do well to steer 
clear of " fancy beds." Unless they are given a great 
deal of attention they are sure to be unsatisfactory. 
Aim, then, to have beds of pleasing shape, but let 
these shapes be simple and in harmony with the 
habit and character of the plants to be grown in 
them. Circular or oval beds are suited to jDromi- 
nent locations, because tall plants may be grown in 
the centre, smaller ones about them, and low sorts at 
the edge, giving an effect v/hich is pleasing from all 
points of view. Circular or curving beds are more 
satisfactory than straight or square ones, because all 
plants seem more in harmony with curves and 
flowing lines than with angles. If you are not very 
particular about the shape of your bed, but want 
something easy to reach from all points, a long, nar- 
row one will suit you best. Such beds near the path, 
and following its curves and angles in general out- 
line, are always more pleasing than wide ones. 



152 Jplowerg 

If you have wide beds that are to be seen from the 
path and are at some distance from it, plant tall 
flowers at the farther side, and arrange your plants 
in such a manner as to give one the idea of a slope 
or bank. Always keep in mind the principal points 
from which your beds will be seen, and arrange your 
plants so as to have them make an effective display 
from those positions. 

In order to do this satisfactorily it will be neces- 
sary^ to study your catalogues thoroughly, so that 
you may know what kinds to plant in the back- 
ground, the middle distance, and the foreground. 

If your garden is long and narrow, and at one sid^ 
of the path, as many necessarily are, because of the 
circumscribed limits of village or city lots, let the 
" banking " idea prevail throughout. That is, plant 
tall growers in the farther bed, and work down to 
low-growing plants in the places nearest the path. 
In this way it is possible to give all a chance to dis- 
play themselves. Such a result, however, cannot be 
secured without a knowledge of the material you are 
to use. Know your plants. 

If you want the best possible effects, do not put 
several kinds of flowers in the same bed. 

Most satisfactory results are secured by planting 
each kind b}^ itself, and, as ,a general thing, each 
color by itself. But where contrast is desired, two or 



tibe ©ut*2)oor (3arDen 153 

three colors may be used very effectively m the same 
bed, provided they are such as harmonize perfectly. 
Not all colors of the same flower are in harmony 
with each other. You can easily satisfy yourself of 
the force and truth of this statement if you place 
clusters of the scarlet, mauve, and magenta phlox 
side by side. The combination is positively painful 
in its effect upon the eye. So do not place several 
varieties of the same flower in the same bed unless 
you know what the colors of these varieties are. It 
is because of the inharmonious combination of color 
that nearly always results when packages of "mixed" 
seed are used that I advise buying packages in which 
each color is kept by itself, for in this way you can 
plant for a particular effect, and be reasonabl}^ sure 
of getting it. But this you* can never do when mixed 
seed is used. 

In planning the garden, do not consider one bed 
as entirely independent of the others. Rather, con- 
sider the garden as a whole, and arrange your beds 
in such a manner that the color in one will harmo- 
nize with that in the next one. Study general effect 
rather than individual display in the selection and 
arrangement of your colors. 

It is well to make a plan of your summer garden 
on paper, early in the season. Think it out carefully 
while you have plenty of time to do so. Imagine 



154 3flowcr6 

the effect of this or that phint in this or that place, 
and shift and change about until you feel sure j^ou 
have an arrangement by which each kind 3^ou have 
decided to use ma}^ be most effectively seen from the 
path or the house. If 3'OU are familiar with plants, 
it is not at all difficult to form mental pictures of the 
garden to be, which will be of great hel]^ to j^ou in 
coming to conclusions as to what plants to have, and 
where to have them. When you have decided, draw 
a map or diagram of your garden as you propose to 
have it, marking eacli bed with the name of the 
plant it is to contain. When the time comes to do 
the work, you will know just what to do, and when 
the time comes to sow seed or set out plants, 3"ou 
will know just where they belong. A plan of this 
kind greatly expedites matters, because it simplifies 
them, and gives you something to be governed by. 
Without such a plan, gardening operation3 are sure 
to be on the hap-hazard s^^stem. The garden which 
affords most pleasure is the one which has been most 
carefully thought out in all its details. 

I have said but little about beds, their form, or 
their arrangement, because it is impossible to do very 
much in this line without knowing the conditions 
that prevail in each case. Each person must be a 
" law unto himself " in this matter. If he has good 
taste, and understands the plants he has selected, he 



Zbc ®ut=2)oou (3arDen 155 

can arrange his garden much more to his pleasure 
than any one else can arrange it for him. Any one 
who has the true gardening instinct will prefer to 
attend to this matter for himself. 

Let me give one item of advice which the amateur 
will do well to heed. Do not attempt anything 
elaborate unless you have had considerable experi- 
ence. There is safety in simplicity. 

I would also advise having separate beds for 
annuals and so-called " bedding plants." ^ The two 
classes do not combine Avell. 

" Bedding plants," so called by the florists to dis- 
tinguish between the annuals and the greenhouse 
plants used for filling beds on the lawn or in the 
garden, seldom bloom as freely — with the exception 
of the geranium — as annuals do, and have a quite 
different habit of growth, and because of these dif- 
ferences it is advisable to keep them apart. Most 
" bedding " plants have more delicate flowers than 
the annuals, and a greater " air of distinction," 
because of quality, and they should be given a 
place near the house or path where their beauty 
can be seen to the best advantage. 

The following plants are adapted for conspicuous 
positions on the lawn or for back rows : Dahlias, 
amaranthus, salvia, canna, zinnia, gladiolus. 

For beds where plants of medium height are 



156 jflowcre 

wanted : Aster, balsam, calliopsis, larkspur, mari- 
gold, poppy, phlox. 

For low beds near the path or house : Pansy, 
eschscholtzia, daisy, candytuft, sweet alyssum, por- 
tulaca, ageratuni, verbena. 

For beds where a brilliant show of color is de- 
sired: Calliopsis, yellow; eschscholtzia, yellow; 
salvia, scarlet ; phlox drunimondii, rose and white; 
nasturtium, orange and maroon ; petunia, violet, 
crimson and white. 

For border j)lants : Candytuft, white; alyssum, 
white; ageratum, blue ; lobelia, blue. 

The best edging plants among the bedding ones 
are: ^lad. Sallcroi geranium, green and white; 
golden-feather pyrethrum, yellow ; centaurea, gray. 

By using the various shades of coleus a greater 
range of color can be obtained, but T do not consider 
this a very good plant for edging a bed. It does 
better as a " filler," with some more close-jointed, 
compact-growing plant as a border. 

For combinations where brilliant show of color is 
desired use scarlet salvia as a centre plant, sur- 
rounded with golden-yellow calliopsis and edged 
with candytuft or sweet alyssum. Dwarf maroon 
nasturtiums can also be used effectively. 

For tropical beds on the lawn the ricinus is an 
important plant. It grows to great size and has a 



XLbc ©utsDoor <5ar&en 157 

spread of six or eight feet, with hronzy foliage often 
two or three feet across. Its immense leaves have a 
rich, metallic lustre, and give the ]3lant a most 
stately appearance. One plant is impressive in its 
effect, but several in a group are better. These can 
be used alone or in combination with cannas or cal- 
adiums. 

For smaller beds use cannas in variety, planting 
with due regard to size as well as color of foliage. 

For covering screens or fences : Sweet pea, morn- 
ing glory, flowering bean, Maurandia, gourds. 

For sunny locations : Portulacas, nasturtiums. 

For shady places : Pansy, myosotis. 

For beds close to the path : Tea roses, first of all ; 
heliotropes, verbenas, pansies. 

For carpet-bedding, where color alone is required: 
Coleus yellow-bird, pyrethrum golden-feather, yellow; 
achyranthes, alternanthera, crimson, yellow, and 
green in combination ; coleus, red, maroon, and 
green and white ; centaurea, coral, silver}^ gray. 

For massing : Petunias, phlox, aster, calliopsis. 

For cutting, the following plants are excellent : 
Sweet peas, heliotrope, mignonette, nasturtium, calli- 
opsis, tea-roses, salvia, poppy, dahlia, gladiolus, rud- 
beckia, " golden glow," pansy. 

For planting about the veranda : sweet pea, morn- 
ing glory, Maurandia. 



158 3f lowers 

For late flowering: Asters, ten-week stock, pansy. 

Of the easiest culture : Petunia, phlox, calliopsis, 
balsam, aster, marigold, sweet pea, morning glory, 
candy tuft, sweet alyssum, pansy, portulaca, nastur- 
tium, zinnia, gladiolus, larkspur. 

The plants in the foregoing list are especially 
adapted to the needs of the amateur Horist. They 
are hard}^, self-reliant, robust, and free flowering, and 
they are all good. 

I think a careful study of the several lists that 
have been given Avill enable any one to select plants 
suited to each purpose in flower-garden or lawn 
requirements. I have named the best kinds for gen- 
eral use and have given lists large enough to admit 
of free selection. In looking over the catalogues you 
wdll find a great many I have not mentioned. Some 
are good ; some are not. Some are satisfactory^ when 
grown by an experienced gardener, but disappointing 
w^hen grown by the amateur. The kinds named fill 
requirements, and the man or woman who gives them 
proper care may feel reasonabl}^ sure of success with 
them. 

A few words as to w^iat is meant b}^ the term 
" proper care " may not be amiss. By it I mean — 

1st. Keeping the bed free from weeds. You can- 
not grow good flowers unless you suppress the weeds. 
The two will not get along well together. Therefore, 



Jibe ©ut*Door (3arDen 159 

never allow a weed to become established in your 
flower-beds. Pull it up the moment you dis- 
cover it. 

2d. Keeping the ground open and mellow, to en- 
able it to made use of all the moisture that comes 
along, either from rain or dew. Never let the sur- 
face of the soil become hard and crusted. If you do, 
it cannot take in moisture and your plants will 
suffer for lack of it. Stir it two or three times a 
week throughout the season, whether it is wet or 
dry. 

3d. Removing all fading flowers. By doing this 
you prevent the formation of seed and induce the 
plant to continue the production of flowers. If you 
allow seed to form, all the energies of the plant will 
be used in ripening and perfecting it, and you will 
get but few flowers after the first general crop. There- 
fore, never allow a plant to form seed if you want to 
keep it blooming during the season. 



CHAPTER XXVI 

HARDY BORDER PLANTS 

Every year I am more and more impressed with 
the value of hardy border plants for the amateur 
florist. The}^ are good for years, when once estab- 
lished, if properly cared for, and to care for them 
properly does not call for a great amount of labor. 

The term, " proper care " is one in which there are 
several degrees. 

In the lowest degree, it means simply keeping the 
weeds from encroaching on the plants, and this is 
about all the care that hard}^ border plants are likely 
to receive from very many amateurs, and most 
varieties will do quite well with this simple atten- 
tion — much better, in fact, than any other class of 
plants. 

The next degree adds to keeping down the weeds, 
the regular and liberal fertilization of the soil. 
This is a matter I have constantly urged as being of 
the greatest importance to one who aims to develop 
the plants in such a manner as to satisf}^ the enthusi- 
astic florist who, it must be remembered, is not to be 
satisfied with the average plant, the plant as generally 
160 



IbarDg JSorDec lplant6 161 

grown, but who insists upon having finest specimens. 
Quality is more to him than quantity. 

In the third degree there are included many little 
items of attention which I need not mention here, 
but which the careful cultivator will understand 
fully, if he studies his plants, for a knowledge of them 
will enable him to see what can be done for their 
benefit without being told about it. There are many 
seemingly unimportant things connected with plant- 
culture which are really of great importance, and 
with these we must become familiar by experience 
and personal work among the plants. They cannot 
be "put down in the books." It is an acquired 
knowledge. 

For the lover of flowers who has not a great deal 
of time to devote to their care herbaceous plants are 
the kind to be selected for the garden, because of the 
ease with which they are cultivated and the generous 
returns they make. It requires less care to keep a 
large collection of them free from weeds than it takes 
to w^eed a small bed of annuals, and work with the 
hoe is far easier than hand-weeding. I would not be 
understood as advising the neglect of annuals, but I 
would advise the growing of fewer annuals and more 
hardy border plants. 

One of the very best perennials is the phlox. It 
has always been valued highly as a means of produc- 
11 



162 3flowet0 

ing a grand show of color. Of late, varieties have 
been produced which are wonderfully beautiful when 
the individual flower is considered. Some of the 
newer sorts are as large and as brilliant as a gera- 
nium, and when the immense size of their trusses is 
taken into consideration, and the length of time they 
remain in bloom, with the large number of flower 
stalks sent up from each strong clump of roots, the 
good qualities of this plant will be more fully real- 
ized by those who have seen it but have not grown 
it. I consider it the best hardy summer-flowering 
plant for general culture. Its care is of the simplest. 
It likes a rich soil, as all plants of this class do. It 
likes to have grass and weeds kept from choking it 
and robbing it of nutriment. Beyond this it makes 
no demands. Year after year its roots increase in 
size, and the clump grows larger, until you have a 
solid mass of flowers three or four feet across, of all 
shades of crimson, rose, violet, lilac, purple, and 
scarlet to pure white. It is entirely hardy. It is 
easily increased by division of its roots. It is 
charming when planted among shrubbery to fur- 
nish brightness after the shrubs have passed their 
period of bloom. Fine effects are secured by 
planting it in groups, with the tall-growing sorts in 
the rear. 

Next in value to the phlox I would j^lace the 



1barOi2 3i3or&er iplante 163 

hollyhock. I am not sure but I would give it first 
jDlace on the list if it were as strong and hardy as 
tlie phlox, but it is not, consequently there are more 
failures with it. The old single varieties used to be 
very robust, and lasted for years, but the new and 
beautiful double sorts seem to have gained their 
beauty at the expense of vitality, and the plants are 
seldom worth keeping for a third season. I would 
advise sowing a few seeds each year, so that a supply 
of young and healthy plants can be kept on hand. 
These young plants should have a protection of 
leaves given them in fall, and care should be taken 
to see that water does not stand about their roots. 
Nothing is more effective for bold and prominent 
points of decoration than groups of these new double 
hollyhocks, with their rich and varied coloring, run- 
ning through all shades of red, scarlet, purple, rose, 
and maroon, so dark as to appear almost black, and 
ranging from this to pale yellow and pure white. 
But the old single kinds deserve a place in every 
garden. For back rows, where something of good 
size and striking appearance is desired, it is one of 
the best of all plants. 

The aquilegias, of which there are many varieties, 
are all desirable, and among our best hard}^ plants. 
I prefer the soft, delicate yellows, the pure, pale 
blues, and the white kinds. Mass them and you 



164 flowers 

will have a charming body of color for weeks during 
the early part of the season. 

Coreopsis lanceolata is one of the new plants, sure 
to win its way to popular favor. It is perfectly 
hardy. It sends up many slender flower-stalks 
crowned with daisy-like blossoms of the richest 
yellow. 

The pink and white herbaceous spireas deserve a 
place in every garden. We have few daintier flowers 
than these, with their delicate, feathery clusters lifted 
airily above their clustering foliage on long and 
slender stalks. They are very hardy. 

No garden is complete without peonies. One fre- 
quently sees strong old clumps of them, three or four 
feet across, bearing hundreds of flowers, of noble size 
and most beautiful coloring. Such a specimen of this 
plant is magnificent when in bloom, and cannot be 
too highly prized. Give it a somewhat heavy, clayey 
soil, and make it very rich with old cow-manure. 
Disturb its roots as little as possible. 

The perennial larkspur is a grand plant when well 
grown. It often reaches a height of seven or eiglit 
feet, with thirt}^, fifty, often a hundred stalks from 
each strong clump of roots, each one bearing a spike 
of flowers from two to three feet in length. Formo- 
sum is of the richest blue, deep, intense, and almost 
luminous in its brilliance. This is one of the plants 



IbarDB JSorDcc plants 165 

belonging to the back row. There are pale blue and 
white varieties, but they are not so fine as the good 
old formosum. 

One of the popular flowers of the day is the iris, 
and deservedly so. This plant has a wonderful 
range of rich and delicate colors. Such blues and 
yellows and purples, such maroons and pearly 
whites, such grays and violets, we seldom find in any 
flower. Its exquisite colors and combinations of 
color, its long season of bloom, and its freedom of 
flowering makes it a favorite wherever it is grown. 

The domesticated aster is another most desirable 
plant. Cultivation has greatly improved it in size. 
It blooms much more freely than its relatives of the 
fence-corner and the pasture-lot. It comes at a time 
when there is a dearth of flowers, and last« until the 
coming of cold weather. The two best sorts for the 
amateur's garden are novse anglea and rosea. 

Of course, every border should have its collection 
of lilies. There should be the Japanese sorts, album, 
speciosum and rubrum, with that showy old-timer, 
the " tiger lily," brilliant in orange and brown, and 
the well-known candelabrum, with its golden cups 
uplifted to catch the sunshine. I do not advise 
longiflorum or auratum for cultivation at the ex- 
treme north, for they are not hardy enough to be 
depended upon. 



166 3f lowers 

For front rows, there is the hardy pink, the pretty 
little phlox sublata, and the evergreen candytuft. 

I must not forget to speak a good word for the 
dicentra. This lovely flower has the special merit of 
being an early bloomer. It follows the bulbs closely, 
and is quite as beautiful as anything that grows in 
the garden. Its long sprays of pink and white 
flowers are excellent for cutting. Give it a very rich 
soil. It is entirely hardy. 

The new rudbeckia, " golden glow," is one of the 
finest plants of recent introduction. It is as hardy 
as a plant can possibly be. It is a wonderful bloomer, 
and its rich, golden yellow flowers are quite as fine 
as the popular semi-double dahlias, which they re- 
semble in size and shape. 

I would advise having the border by itself, as far 
as possible, because it will be necessary to hoe about 
the plants in it frequently, and this can be done to 
better advantage if they are by themselves than 
where tliey are i:)lanted among shrubberry. Grown 
among shrubs, they will quite surely be robbed to a 
great extent of the nutriment they require. I would 
advise the use of a few perennials among the shrubs, 
but the bulk of them should have a place of their 
own. A good place for them is beside a fence which 
you would like to hide as much as possible. 

Of course it will be understood that the list here 



1barDi2 3BorOcc iplants 167 

given does not include all the really good kinds of 
hardy plants, but it is made up of those which are 
most likely to do well under such care as they are 
likely to get from the amateur gardener, and there is 
not a poor kind in it. Most of them are free bloom- 
ers. Many of them flower for a period of several 
weeks, and all of them are capable of taking care 
of themselves if you give them a good soil and a 
little attention spring and fall, along the lines already 
indicated. As the amateur gardener attains success 
in the cultivation of the kinds named, he can add to 
his collection those more particular in their require- 
ments. In this, as in all other branches of gardening, 
it is well to begin in a modest way if one has it all 
to learn, and extend operations as his knowledge of 
plants and their needs increases. Davy Crockett's 
well-known advice, " Go slow and learn to peddle," 
applies to floriculture in all its phases, as well as to 
all other kinds of business. One cannot become 
a successful cultivator of flowers in a season. 



CHAPTER XXVII 

TABLE DECORATIONS 

In conclusion, a few remarks on simple but artistic 
decorations for the dinner-table, by those who have 
small green-houses or conservatories, or even small 
window-gardens, will not be out of place. It is an 
easy matter, after a little practice, for those who have 
good taste to arrange decorations for the table with 
simple material. 

Little dinner parties need not necessitate calling in 
the expensive decorator. More elaborate parties can 
be met in a more elaborate manner of decoration, if 
thought advisable, but I am confident that a little 
experience in adorning a table with flowers or grow- 
ing plants will convince most families that the serv- 
ices of a professional can be dispensed with to 
advantage. Most decorators fall into a rut. Their 
decorations for their table at Mrs. B.'s are pretty sure 
to be a copy, after a fashion, of those made for Mrs. 
A., and those for Mrs. C. will be quite similar. Mo- 
notony and sameness of effect result, while freshness 
is desired. 

The home decorator who does not " make a busi- 
168 



enable H)ecorat(on6 169 

ness of it " will have new ideas, and the time to study 
out pretty combinations which will please with their 
charm of freshness and variety. The simplicity 
which will naturally characterize most of them will 
be a strong argument in their favor, when compared 
with the inartistic, unnatural " designs " so prevalent 
among professional works. The fact is, most floral 
designs, whether for table, party, or other use, degrade 
the flowers used, because their individuality is de- 
stroyed and general effect only is the aim. There is 
too much elaboration. This weakens, while in sim- 
plicity there is strength. Home decorations are gen- 
erally most pleasing because less material is used, 
consequently each plant or flower has the opportu- 
nity to display its charms fully, which is never the 
case where a great quantity is used. 

A good rule by which to judge any arrangement 
of flowers or plants, is to look at it as if it Avere a 
picture. Imagine it on canvas, and hanging on 
your wall. Looked at critically, in this way, the 
ordinary table decoration will take on a stiff, unnat- 
ural air far from pleasing. It will appear too formal 
and fussy. It resolves itself in the majority of cases 
into a show of bright colors simply. The individu- 
ality of each flower is lost, as if of secondary import- 
ance, while it should be primary. But if the arrange- 
ment on your table, when imagined into a picture on 



170 JFlowers 

your wall, gives that pleasing impression which truly 
artistic work should, and you feel that, were it indeed 
a picture, you would not tire of it almost immedi- 
ately, then it is safe to conclude that it is a success. 

If you have a good flower piece to study, it will he 
of great benefit to j^ou. It will not furnish a pattern 
which you can reproduce, but it will suggest many 
things to 3^ou, and you will, in time, learn that effects 
secured by following suggestions are more satisfactory 
than mere copying of the design studied, be it ever 
so good. Wh}'-? Simply because the result of work 
wrought out by suggestion will have individuality in 
it, and that, in this case, is a synonym for originality. 
There is a certain nameless sometliing about original 
work that always attracts, though it be crude, while 
copied work seldom attracts much attention. It 
seems to sa}^ on the face of it that it is a reproduc- 
tion of some one's else idea — that, and nothing more 
— while the cruder original work, which can be 
wholly original, though resulting from suggestions, 
has the stamp of its owner's personality. 

One thing that will impress j^ou ver}^ forcibly in 
studying a flower piece is that while there seems to 
be a wealth of color and beauty on the canvas, this 
effect is secured by the use of what might be consid- 
ered very slight material. There will frequently be 
but four, five or half a dozen flowers, and a corre- 



a:able Bccorattons 171 

spending amount of foliage, but the picture will have 
brightness enough in it to beautify and Ught up a 
room. You will be surprised at the effect secured by 
limited means when you come to analyze the picture. 
Surprised, because most likely you will have had an 
idea that half a dozen flowers were wholly inade- 
quate to the satisfactory decoration of a table. From 
this you will learn that the artist has depended on 
wealth of quality rather than of quantity, in his 
effort to make a pleasing picture, and when you 
fully realize the truth that lies in this fundamental 
principle of all true art, you will have outgrown 
the mischievous idea that one must have a large 
conservatory or a big bank account to be able to 
'' furnish forth a feast" in a satisfactory manner 
with flowers. 

Another thing you will learn from the picture- 
that the artist has not sought to improve on Nature 
in the arrangement of his flowers. He has simply 
imitated her method. He has been content to repro- 
duce faithfully. The flowers and their foliage have 
been painted as they grew, because he knew very 
well that any attempt on his part to re-arrange them 
would result in partial or complete failure. Most 
arrangements of flowers in vases are unsatisfactory, 
though the observer may not be quite able to deter- 
mine why. The colors may harmonize. There may 



172 jflowers 

not be a sufficient quantity used lo crowd the mass 
into a jumble. Still the effect is not what it ought 
to be. Patient study will convince you that the un- 
pleasant effect results from the attempt to make 
everything very symmetrical. The flow er on this side 
must be balanced by a flower on that side. Foliage 
must be disposed in such a manner as to suggest a 
most impartial distribution of it ; all parts must fare 
alike. This is all wrong. Look at a branch of apple- 
blossoms. Could any artist improve on it? But 
when you study its arrangement you will see that 
here is a tuft of leaves, there a cluster of blossoms, 
perhaps a bit of branch leafless and flowerless. There 
is no symmetry resulting from an attempt of Nature 
to secure " balanced " effect, but a symmetry 4hat is 
the outgrowth of an artistic idea, or, more properl}^, 
instinct. Never try to arrange flowers in such 
a manner that they will look the same from all 
sides. 

Take your lessons of arrangement from Nature, 
who is the only decorative artist that makes no mis- 
takes. Those who undertake to improve upon her 
methods always produce something formal and 
labored. Nature believes in simplicity, and the 
result is spontaneity of effort. In following, so far 
as we are able, the methods of Nature, we are sure to 
do better work than we can ho^DC to by any other 



^able Becorationa 173 

means. We may not master all her little tricks of 
beauty in the arrangement of leaf or flower, but we 
can try to do so. 

In decorating a dinner-table, a great mistake is 
made in scattering the flowers used over a large 
portion of its surface, as is frequently done. It may 
be custom to do this — " the style," as people say — 
but it is not in harmony with artistic taste. It 
weakens the effect. Confine the floral display to one 
place on the table, and you have a central bit of 
color and beauty which dominates, and pleases the 
eye. But scatter flowers here and there about this 
central point, and the eye is confused and bewildered 
by the show\ There is no place in particular to 
concentrate and hold attention. It is " too much of 
a good thing," a veritable '' embarrassment of 
riches." But confine the flowers to the centre of the 
table, and the eye delights to linger on it. It seems 
the pivotal point of color about which the various 
accessories of beauty at the banquet revolve. 

The effect produced by the use of flowers on the 
table is greatly heightened or marred by the vessels 
in which they are placed. There should be a har- 
mony, not only of color, but of form. A rose is 
always beautiful, but it seems much more so when 
displayed in a pretty bowl than it does in a vase that 
forces it to assume an unnatural position. A lily is 



174 3flower0 

charming in a vase of crystal, but put it in a bowl 
of the rarest old blue china and it would appeal to 
you for pity rather than admiration. Carnations are 
extremely effective in slender vases that enable them 
to keep a natural position, but put them in a bowl 
that would admirably suit the rose, and they would 
take on a most dejected appearance. It is impossible 
to lay down any rule regarding the selection of vases 
of bowls for particular flowers, but it is well to study 
the effect of them in various receptacles, and from 
this one will soon learn which floAvers to use in this 
or that vase or bowl. He will find that there is a 
harmony in form and color w^hich it will be well to 
bear in mind in decorating the table or the mantel. 
Aim, always, to give each flower such a vessel as will 
allow it to retain its natural position to the greatest 
possible extent. If this is done, one great step in the 
direction of success is taken. 

I have frequently spoken of letting flowers arrange 
themselves. This they are perfectly able to do, if 
given the chance. Drop them into the bowl or vase 
provided for them, give it a shake, and in nine cases 
out of ten they will fall into positions more natural, 
therefore more graceful than those in which you 
could place them if you w^ere to work at them for a 
week. Any one who has ever tried to '' arrange " 
sweet peas, and failed, will appreciate the truth of 



(Table Decorations 175 

this statement. But just drop the dainty things into 
a vase, and straightway they dispose themselves in a 
manner that delights you, though it vexes you some- 
what to see them taking on so easily the charm you 
had sought to give them. 

THE END 



ETIQUETTE 

By AGNES H. MORTON 

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QUOTATIONS 

By AGNES H. MORTON 

Author of " Etiquette," " Letter Writing," etc. 
Cloth Binding 50 Cent3 

THIS volume is a clever compilation of pithy quo- 
tations, selected from a great variety of sources, 
arid alphabetically arranged according to the senti- 
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SLIPS OF SPEECH 

By JOHN H. BECHTEL 

Author of " Handbook of Pronunciation," 

" Practical Synonyms," etc. 

Cloth Binding: 50 Cent* 

A HELPFUL book for every one, for who is free 
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Hand-Book of Pronunciation 

BY JOHN H. BECHTEL 

Author of "Practical Synonyms," "Temperance Selections," etc. 
Cloth Binding 50 Cents 

SOME books are made : others grow. This work 
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Foreign words in frequent use but not yet anglicized 
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Practical Synonyms 



John H. Bechtel 

Author of " Handbook of Pronimdation " 

" Temperance Selections," Etc. 

Goth Binding 50 Cents 

YOUR portrait is the representation of your physi- 
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The portrait and the words are alike valued in 
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Toasts p^^ Forms of Public Address 

BY WILLIAM PITTENGER 

Author of "Extempore Speech," "The Debater's 

Treasury," etc. 
Cloth Binding 50 Cents 

THE custom of making addresses at the close of a 
feast is so thoroughly established, and these 
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The DEBATER'S Treasury 

By WILLIAM PITTENGER 

Author of " Extempore Speech," " How to Become a 

Public Speaker," etc. 

Cloth Binding 50 Cents 

THE ability to debate a question skillfully and forci- 
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PUNCTUATION 

BY 

PAUL ALLARDYCE 

Cloth Binding 50 Cenh 

IN this practical commercial age, witli its directness 
of statement and simplicity of expression, the 
matter of Punctuation would seem of less impor- 
tance than formerly, but such is not the case, for, 
as a matter of fact, the rapid Rish of modern life is 
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library. 

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The DEBATER'S Treasury 

By WILLIAM PITTENGER 

Author of " Extempore Speech," " How to Become a 

Public Speaker," etc. 

Cloth Binding: 50 Cents 

THE ability to debate a question skillfully and forci- 
bly is of the greatest value, and has often been 
the passport to wealth and fame. In the conflict of 
opinions prevailing in every department of life, it is 
most desirable to maintain our own position in the 
face of all opposition. Whoever cannot do so may 
possess brilliant ideas, may originate wise plans, 
and may even be eloquent with pen and tongue, 
but will always have difficulty in securing the 
co-Operation of others. 

This valuable book contains directions for organ- 
izing and conducting debating societies, most practi- 
cal suggestions for all who speak, or aspire to discuss 
questions in public, and in addition gives a list of 
over 200 questions on all conceivable subjects for 
debate, with a half-dozen outlines for argument on 
each subject for both affirmative and negative. 

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scholars in all grades of schools as well as to partici- 
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special occasions. 

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PUNCTUATION 

BY 

PAUL ALLARDYCE 

Cloth Binding 50 Cenis 

IN this practical commercial age, with its directness 
of statement and simplicity of expression, the 
matter of Punctuation would seem of less impor- 
tance than formerly, but such is not the case, for, 
as a matter of fact, the rapid Rish of modern life is 
attended with such a carelessness of sentential 
structure that its study is rendered all the more 
necessary and urgent in consequence. 

This volume is the most practical, concise, and 
comprehensive book on the subject. The rules, 
which are clearly stated, are followed with numer- 
ous practical illustrations, thus furnisning a complete 
exposition of this much neglected study. The 
author, who is everywhere recognized as authority 
upon the subject, has made what is usually a very 
uninteresting theme so attractive that there is not a 
dry or tedious page in the book. 

Its value appeaTs, not alone to the author or corre- 
spondent, but to every intelligent person who has 
occasion to write even the briefest social or business 
note, and it is therefore universally invaluable and 
a volume that should be in every writing desk or 
library. 

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ORATORY 



By henry ward BEECHER 

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THE attention of all persons interested in the Art of 
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the fundamental principles of true oratory. 

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THIS VOLUME CONTAINS ALSO 
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ART OF ORATORY 

a most Interesting and Instructive Oration by REV. 
J. F. Behrends, D. D., of Brooklyn. 

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The Art of Conversation 

By J. P. MAHAFFY 

Fellow of Trinity College, Dublin 

Cloth Binding 50 Cents 

OF all the accomplishments prized in modern 
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Reading as a Fine Art 

By ERNEST LEGOUVE 

Of the Academic Fran^aise 
Translated from the Ninth Edition by Abby Langdon Alger 

Cloth Binding 50 Cents 

THIS excellent work is universally recognized as 
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THE LAWS AND PRINCIPLES OF 

WHIST 

STATED AND EXPLAINED BY CAVENDISH 

Twenty-second Edition 
Doth Binding 50 Cents 

THE game of Whist in one form or another has 
been played since the beginning of the i6th 
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PARLOR GAMES 

FOR THE 

WISE AND OTHERWISE 
By HELEN E. HOLLISTER 

Cloth Binding- 50 Cents 

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CONUNDRUMS 

By DEAN RIVERS 



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•T^HE taste for guessing puzzles and riddles is coeval with th« 

^ race. One of the brightest forms of puzzles is that of 

the conundrum. Each language has its own particular form of 
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The compiler of this volume has made a choice selection of 
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TALKS 

By GEORGE THATCHER 

The Celebrated Minstrel 

140 Pages Paper Binding 25 Cents 

T^HIS unique volume supplies in a most satisfactory 
^ way the want that has heretofore been but indif- 
ferently met by the so-called Stump-Speech books. Mr. 
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ing to any person who is fond of the lighter vein of 
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